Bermudian cooking is a mix of British habits, Caribbean and Portuguese influences and an island's love of fish, and eating well is part of any trip. The best advice is to try the signature dishes, spend one meal in a proper restaurant, and fill the gaps with casual lunches. This guide explains what to order, what to drink and how to fit a tasting tour into your plans.
The fish sandwich
The island's most famous dish is a fillet of fried fish, often wahoo or a similar local catch, served in a bun or on raisin bread, with tartar sauce, lettuce and tomato. It is sold in takeaway counters, pubs and beachside cafes across the island, and arguments about the best version are a local pastime. Order one at lunch, eat it outside if the weather allows, and ask for it with coleslaw or fries as you would at home. If you want to learn where locals go, a guided food tour in Hamilton is the quickest way to find out.
Fish chowder
Bermuda fish chowder is a thick, spiced fish soup, typically served with a splash of black rum and sherry peppers, a fiery pepper sauce, at the table. It appears on menus everywhere, and each kitchen has its own version. Try it at a pub or waterfront restaurant, and add the rum and peppers a little at a time, because the sauce is strong. Other local dishes to look for include fish cakes, rockfish, spiny lobster in season, and codfish and potatoes, a traditional Sunday breakfast. Cassava pie, a savoury pie with a thick crust, is a seasonal tradition around Christmas.
Drinks
Two cocktails belong to the island. The rum swizzle is a blend of rum, fruit juices and bitters, served cold and sweet, and it is the drink handed out on catamaran cruises. The Dark 'n' Stormy is dark rum over ginger beer with a squeeze of lime, and it is the national cocktail in the eyes of many. Bermudian rum is a major export, and a tasting is a good way to learn the difference between gold and black. The sunset and swizzle cruise is a pleasant way to try a swizzle on the water, while the Hamilton food tour includes a rum-based drink or two. If you prefer something non-alcoholic, ask for ginger beer or a fruit punch.
Where to eat
Hamilton has the widest choice, from casual pubs and cafes on Front Street to waterfront restaurants and hotel dining rooms, and many are open for lunch and dinner. In the west end, the Dockyard has waterfront restaurants and cafes handy for lunch after a boat trip or a museum visit, and Somerset Village has a few local spots. In the east end, St. George's has restaurants by the harbour, and the tavern beside Tom Moore's Jungle in Hamilton Parish is a historic setting for a meal after a walk. Along the south shore, beach concessions serve snacks in summer, though they keep shorter hours out of season. Reserve ahead for dinner in popular places, particularly in summer and at weekends, and check opening days, because some small restaurants close on Sundays or Mondays.
Eating well without overspending
Bermuda is expensive, but there are ways to keep costs down. Choose a hotel with breakfast included, such as the Oxford House, picnic at a free sight like the Botanical Gardens or Scaur Hill, and make lunch your main meal in a casual place rather than dinner. Share portions, since servings are generous, and ask whether a service charge is already included before you tip. Supermarkets and delis in Hamilton are useful for picnic supplies, and a stop at a local ice cream parlour makes a cheap treat.
A few ordering tips
Ask what the catch of the day is, since fish is the heart of the menu and the freshest choice is often off the specials board. Order chowder as a starter and share a sandwich if portions look large. At a bar, ask for your swizzle or Dark 'n' Stormy made with local rum, and sip slowly, because both are stronger than they taste. Sunday brunch is a tradition at many hotels, and a good way to meet the local pace of life.
Taking a tour
If you want to understand the island's food in a few hours, a guided tasting tour of Hamilton gives you samples, stories and recommendations for the rest of your stay. Do it early in your trip, so that you can follow up on what you liked, and tell the operator about dietary needs when you book. Bermuda's food is a good reason to slow down, so leave room for long lunches and unplanned stops, and let the island's flavours guide a few of your days.
