Sajama National Park

Sajama National Park lies on the western altiplano, close to the border with Chile, in a landscape of golden grass, volcanic cones and enormous sky. It is Bolivia's oldest national park, and it takes its name from Nevado Sajama, a snow-capped volcano of around 6,500 meters, the highest mountain in the country. Beside it stand the twin volcanoes Parinacota and Pomerape, known as the Payachatas, which share the horizon with Chile. The park is home to vicuñas, llamas, alpacas, flamingos and some of the world's highest forests, made up of queñua trees, a hardy native species that grows at extreme elevations. Hot springs and geysers add to the appeal, and the simple pleasure of soaking in warm water with a snow peak in view is the highlight for many visitors.

Reaching Sajama takes time. The park lies roughly 250 to 300 kilometers from La Paz by road, and the drive takes four to five hours each way, so a day trip is long, though it is offered by some operators. Many travelers prefer to stay a night in the village of Sajama in a simple lodge or homestay, which allows time for a sunrise over the mountain, a gentle walk and the hot springs without a rush.

A private car with a driver is the most flexible option, and group tours are also available. Because the road is in good condition for much of the way, the trip is comfortable, but expect long hours in the vehicle.

Altitude is a serious consideration. The village sits at around 4,200 meters, higher than anywhere in La Paz, and the air is cold and dry. Spend a few days in La Paz first, drink water, and avoid alcohol and heavy meals. Nights drop well below freezing for much of the year, and even in the sunny dry season the wind is strong, so pack warm layers, a hat, gloves and good sunglasses.

The hot springs and geysers are a welcome chance to warm up, and most visitors find the pools the best part of the day.

Activities in the park include easy walks across the plain to see vicuñas and flamingos, short hikes to viewpoints, visits to ancient chullpas, which are tower-shaped burial structures of the Aymara people, and trips to the geyser fields at the foot of the volcano. Climbing Sajama itself is a serious expedition that requires proper acclimatization and a specialist guide, and it is not something to attempt on a casual visit. Local community guides and lodges, many run by Aymara families, can arrange walks and horseback rides and explain the traditions of herding and weaving that sustain life on the plateau.

The best season is the dry months from May to October, when the sky is a deep blue and the roads are reliable, although it is also the coldest time at night. In the wet season clouds can hide the peaks and some tracks are muddy. Some visitors combine Sajama with the road to Chile or with a longer circuit toward Uyuni, because the landscape continues south in a long chain of volcanoes and salt basins.

Carry cash, since there are few places to pay by card, and check road and weather conditions before you set out, as snow and blockades occasionally interrupt the route.