The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca stands on the Colle della Guardia, around three hundred metres above sea level, and its pink dome is visible from much of the city. It guards an icon of the Virgin that tradition attributes to Saint Luke, and pilgrims have climbed to it for centuries. To shelter them from sun and rain, the Bolognese built a portico between 1674 and 1739 that runs for about four kilometres from Porta Saragozza, with 666 uninterrupted arches. Halfway along, the elegant Arco del Meloncello, designed by Carlo Francesco Dotti in 1721, marks the point where the flat street gives way to the climb. In 2021 the porticoes of Bologna, this one included, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The view from the top over the city, the plain and the Apennine hills is the reward, whether you arrive on foot or on board the San Luca Express sightseeing train.
How it works: there are two ways up. Walkers follow the portico from Porta Saragozza, a steady climb of around an hour from the Meloncello arch, with steps and ramps; it is free and covered all the way. The easier way is the San Luca Express, a road train that leaves from Piazza Maggiore and climbs through the porticoed streets to the sanctuary in around half an hour each way. The Tiqets product linked here includes the return train, an on-board audio guide, a self-guided visit to the basilica and tasting vouchers to use back in the centre.
At the top: the sanctuary is a working church, so dress modestly and keep quiet during services. Inside, the icon sits above the high altar. Step outside for the panorama over the red city in one direction and the hills in the other. Bars near the church serve coffee and snacks.
Making the most of it: a popular combination is the train up and the walk down, letting gravity do the work while you count the arches. Wear shoes with grip, because the portico paving can be slippery in wet weather. A clear winter day gives the sharpest views to the Apennines.
What to expect
The experience
A sightseeing train ride or an uphill walk under a four-kilometre portico to a hilltop sanctuary with sweeping views.
Best time
A clear morning for the views, or the early afternoon in winter so you are back down before dusk.
How long
About three hours with the train and tasting, or half a day if you walk one or both ways.
Tips
Take the train up and walk down, wear shoes with grip, and dress modestly for the church.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers, view seekers and anyone who wants to experience the UNESCO porticoes at their most dramatic.
- Families
- The little train is a hit with children, and walking down under cover is manageable for school-age kids.
- Couples
- Watching the city below from the sanctuary terrace, then strolling down the arches together, is a classic Bologna afternoon.
- Pair with
- The Clock Tower for a second, closer view over the centre, and dinner back in the Quadrilatero.
- Time needed
- Three hours to half a day.
Good questions
How many arches does the San Luca portico have?+
The portico has 666 arches and runs for about four kilometres from Porta Saragozza to the sanctuary. It was built between 1674 and 1739.
How long does it take to walk up to San Luca?+
From the Meloncello arch the climb takes around an hour at a steady pace, and longer from Porta Saragozza. It is covered all the way, so it works even in the rain.
What is the San Luca Express?+
It is a small sightseeing road train that runs from Piazza Maggiore up to the sanctuary along the porticoed streets. The ride takes around half an hour each way and includes an audio guide.
Is the Sanctuary of San Luca free?+
Entry to the church itself is free. You pay only for the train if you choose not to walk.
Are the porticoes of Bologna a UNESCO site?+
Yes, the porticoes of Bologna, including the San Luca portico, were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021. They are the city’s signature feature.
