The Sint-Janshospitaal (St John’s Hospital) was caring for the sick of Bruges from the twelfth century, and its medieval wards, with their dark beams and long, quiet rooms, are among the best-preserved hospital buildings in Europe. Today the building is a museum, and its star is Hans Memling, the German-born painter who settled in Bruges and became its most beloved artist in the late fifteenth century. The hospital kept a group of his works in its chapel, and they have never left: the Mystic Marriage of St Catherine triptych, the Diptych of Martin van Nieuwenhove and the tiny Shrine of St Ursula, a gilded wooden reliquary shaped like a Gothic chapel and painted with scenes from the saint’s legend in astonishing miniature detail. Seeing Memling’s panels in the setting for which they were made, in a former chapel beside the wards that cared for the sick, adds a human dimension that a white-walled gallery rarely gives. The museum also tells the story of medieval care, with an old pharmacy and displays of hospital life.
How it works
The museum is run by Musea Brugge and sits on Mariastraat beside the Church of Our Lady, a short walk from the Dijver canal. Tickets can be bought in advance for the single location, and the Musea Brugge Card includes it. Like most museums in the group it closes on Mondays, and it also closes on 25 December and 1 January, so plan your week around the closing day. Entry is possible until shortly before closing.
What to expect
Begin in the hospital wards, where the displays explain how the brothers and sisters of the hospital cared for patients, then move to the chapel and the galleries with the Memling collection. The Shrine of St Ursula repays close attention, because the painted panels show a pilgrimage from Cologne to Rome in tiny, lively scenes. Labels are in several languages. The building has steps and narrow passages, so it suits most visitors but can be awkward for wheelchair users, and it is worth asking in advance about access.
Making the most of it
Take about an hour, and visit in the morning on a weekday to enjoy the galleries at their calmest. It combines naturally with the Church of Our Lady next door, where you can see Michelangelo, and with the Gruuthusemuseum a few steps away. If you are choosing between several art museums, remember that the Groeningemuseum covers the Flemish Primitives as a group, while this museum lets you see one painter in the place his patrons knew.
Finish with a coffee by the Dijver or a canal boat from a nearby landing stage in season. Audio or printed guides, where offered, add context to the paintings and the medieval care of the sick, and they are worth using if you have time.
The museum shop and the quiet courtyard nearby make a pleasant end to the visit, and families with older children can turn the Shrine of St Ursula into a game of spotting the tiny details in each scene. If the day turns wet, this is one of the most rewarding indoor stops in the old town, because the quiet wards and chapel invite lingering rather than rushing. Combine it with a late lunch on a side street and you have a complete, unhurried half day built around the art of fifteenth-century Bruges.
What to expect
The experience
A museum visit through medieval hospital wards and a chapel hung with the paintings of Hans Memling.
Best time
A weekday morning from Tuesday to Sunday, since it closes on Mondays.
How long
About an hour for the wards and the Memling rooms.
Tips
Look closely at the Shrine of St Ursula, and chain the visit with the Church of Our Lady next door.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Art lovers who want to see Memling where he painted and where his work still hangs.
- Families
- Older children can enjoy the miniature scenes on the shrine, but the museum is quiet and gallery-like.
- Couples
- A calm, atmospheric hour on a wet afternoon.
- Pair with
- The Church of Our Lady, the Gruuthusemuseum and the Groeningemuseum.
- Time needed
- About an hour.
Good questions
Who was Hans Memling?+
Memling was a painter of the late fifteenth century who settled in Bruges and became one of its leading artists. Several of his best-known works are kept in this former hospital.
What is the Shrine of St Ursula?+
It is a gilded wooden reliquary shaped like a small Gothic chapel and painted with scenes from the legend of St Ursula. The tiny panels are among the most admired works in the museum.
Is the Memling Museum included in the Musea Brugge Card?+
Yes, the Sint-Janshospitaal is one of the locations covered by the 72-hour Musea Brugge Card.
Is the museum open on Mondays?+
No, like most Musea Brugge locations it closes on Mondays. It also closes on 25 December and 1 January.
How long does a visit take?+
Most visitors need about an hour. Art lovers who want to study the paintings and the wards may want longer.
