twickly.
Eating and Drinking in Bucharest

Bucharest guide

Eating and Drinking in Bucharest

A guide to Romanian food in the capital: the grilled mici, stuffed cabbage, sour soups and papanași to order, plum brandy and Romanian wine, how markets and the Old Town fit together, and the habits that help you eat well.

Romanian food is hearty, sour, smoky and generous, and Bucharest is the best place to meet all of it at once. The city has traditional taverns, modern kitchens that rework village recipes, bakeries on almost every corner and a handful of big markets where you can see where it all comes from. Here is how to eat well without overthinking it.

Dishes to look for

Start with mici, short skinless grilled sausages of mixed minced meat, eaten with mustard and bread and best straight from the grill. Sarmale are cabbage rolls stuffed with pork and rice, usually served with polenta, sour cream and a hot pepper. Mămăligă is the polenta that sits under many dishes. Ciorbă is the family of sour soups, soured with fermented bran or lemon, with the belly version and the meatball version among the most popular. Papanași are fried cheese doughnuts with sour cream and jam, and they are the dessert you will be offered everywhere. Look also for cozonac, a sweet braided loaf, and covrigi, the pretzel-like rings sold in bakeries.

What to drink

Romania is a real wine country, with local grapes such as Fetească Neagră for reds and Fetească Regală for whites, and a tasting is a good way to learn them. The classic spirit is țuică, a plum brandy, often served before the meal; a stronger double-distilled version is called pălincă. Craft beer and cocktail bars have grown quickly in the Old Town, and coffee culture is strong throughout the centre. Tap water is generally drinkable, but many visitors prefer bottled.

Where to eat

The Old Town has the highest concentration of restaurants and the most pitch-hungry street staff, so choose by reputation and look at the kitchen rather than the menu board. Calea Victoriei and the streets around the Athenaeum have more elegant dining, and the neighbourhoods north of the centre have a quieter, local feel. Bakeries and street counters are the best value for breakfast and a quick lunch.

Markets and food experiences

To see the ingredients, go to a market. The small-group food tour to Obor Market takes you through cheese, cured meat, grilled mici and plum brandy with a guide who explains what you are eating, which is the easiest way to taste widely in one go. For wine, the Romanian wine tasting in the Old Town pours five wines with a cheese and charcuterie platter and suits an early evening. Both are better booked a day or two ahead.

A good day of eating

Breakfast on a fresh bakery pastry and coffee. Spend the morning at a museum, then have a ciorbă lunch, the best-value meal of the day in most restaurants. Take a long walk in Cișmigiu Gardens or along Calea Victoriei. For dinner, order a few dishes to share: mici or sarmale, something with polenta, a salad of tomatoes and white cheese in season, and papanași to finish. A glass of Romanian red or a țuică rounds it off.

Practical habits

Lunch is the best-value meal, and many restaurants run a cheaper set menu then. Portions are large, so share if you are unsure. A tip of around ten percent is normal if service is not already added; check the bill. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, though a little cash helps at markets and small counters. Romanians tend to eat late, so kitchens in the centre stay open into the evening, and weekend tables in the Old Town are worth booking.

Vegetarians

Romanian cuisine is meat-heavy, but there are useful options: fasting dishes during Orthodox fasting periods are plant-based, so look for bean soups, stuffed peppers and mushroom dishes, and the growing number of modern kitchens cater well for vegetarians and vegans.

Fitting it into a trip

Food is a good way to anchor your three days. Pair a Palace of the Parliament morning with a late lunch in the Old Town, finish a Calea Victoriei day with a wine tasting, and keep the market tour for a day when you want something relaxed and social. If you stay in the centre, the Old Town’s restaurants are a short walk in every direction. Whatever you choose, ask staff what they would eat themselves, because Romanian hosts are proud of their cooking and happy to steer you toward the dish of the day or a regional wine you would never find on your own. Be adventurous with the sour soups and the grilled meats, and save room for dessert.

Mentioned in this guide

Bucharest Food Tour: Obor Market and Local TastingsDo

Bucharest Food Tour: Obor Market and Local Tastings

A small-group food walk of about five hours that starts at the National Theatre and goes to Obor Market for cheese, grilled mici, plum brandy and a Wallachian doughnut. The best way to eat your way through the real Bucharest.

Romanian Wine Tasting in the Old TownDo

Romanian Wine Tasting in the Old Town

A two-hour guided tasting of five Romanian wines at Abel’s Wine Bar in the Old Town, with a cheese and charcuterie platter for two. An easy, civilised introduction to a wine country most visitors overlook.

Do

Bucharest Old Town and Stavropoleos Monastery

The historic core around Lipscani street: the ruins of the Old Princely Court, a galleried merchants’ inn, banks in Belle Époque palaces and the exquisite little Stavropoleos Monastery. Free to wander and lively from lunch to late.

Cărturești Carusel BookshopDo

Cărturești Carusel Bookshop

A restored nineteenth-century building on Lipscani turned into one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world: white balconies spiralling up around a light-filled atrium, with a bistro at the top. Free and unforgettable.

Cișmigiu GardensDo

Cișmigiu Gardens

The oldest public garden in Bucharest, 16 hectares of shaded alleys, a lake, a rose garden and a skating rink a few minutes from the Old Town. Free, central and a favourite with locals.

Hotel Casa CapsaStay

Hotel Casa Capsa

A 60-room hotel at Calea Victoriei 36 carrying one of Bucharest’s best-known names, two minutes from University Square, five from Cișmigiu Gardens and eight from the Athenaeum.

Stay

Rembrandt Hotel

A small, characterful hotel in a historic Old Town building across from the National Bank, with just 16 rooms, wooden floors and a cosy restaurant. The best-value base inside the historic centre.

Stay

Hilton Garden Inn Bucharest Old Town

A 201-room, 2017 Belle Époque-style hotel on Strada Doamnei with a corner tower, a restaurant and bar, a 24-hour gym and University Square two minutes away. Reliable mid-range comfort in the Old Town.