Kaymaklı is the other great underground city of Cappadocia, and for many visitors it is the more atmospheric of the two. Carved downward into soft volcanic tuff beneath the town of the same name, it was built as a refuge: the Turkish museum authority's page states that the main purpose of these rock settlements was to keep the inhabitants safe. Four floors have been excavated so far, though the page notes that the city is not fully uncovered, and it describes Kaymaklı as the widest explored underground city in the region. Tunnels are low and narrow, so you stoop, shuffle and squeeze past other visitors, but the rooms that open off them tell the story of daily life: stables on the first floor, a church with a single nave and two apses on the second, and on the third a warren of storerooms, wineries and kitchens, including a large stone block pierced with fifty-seven carved holes used for crushing and grinding. Modern houses in Kaymaklı stand above the tunnels, and locals still use parts of the underground spaces as cellars, storerooms and stables, which gives the city a living quality missing from a sealed archaeological site. The museum is run by the state, and its page lists it as open daily, with a late-afternoon closing and a ticket office that stops selling a little earlier.
Inside
The route is a one-way circuit marked with arrows, passing through chambers that include stables, storage rooms, wine presses, kitchens and the church. Round stone doors, which could be rolled across the passage from inside to block intruders, are among the most striking features. Ventilation shafts bring in air, and you will see how families lived in a compact, protected space. The climate underground is cool and steady, and the ceilings and passages are low in places, so you may need to crouch.
Who it suits
The city is not suitable for people who are claustrophobic, have difficulty walking or climbing stairs, or have heart or breathing problems, because the passages are narrow, steep and sometimes crowded. Children old enough to follow instructions usually love it, and it can be a highlight for families.
Wear closed shoes with good grip, because the stone floors can be slippery and uneven, and bring a light layer because the temperature is cool. Because it is a popular stop on day tours, arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon for a quieter visit.
Practical tips
The town of Kaymaklı lies on the road between Nevşehir and Niğde, south of Göreme, and is often combined with Derinkuyu or with the Ihlara Valley on a day trip. If you are short of time, you do not need to visit both underground cities, because they are similar in character, though Kaymaklı is the more spread out and Derinkuyu the deeper. Check opening hours and ticket arrangements on the museum authority's page, since they can change, and keep your phone torch ready in case lighting is dim in side passages.
A little context
The Cappadocian underground cities are generally thought to have been used by local communities as refuges, with ventilation shafts, wells and rolling stone doors designed to help people survive long periods below ground. Archaeologists continue to debate the dates and phases of their use, so be wary of any guide who gives exact figures with great confidence. What is clear is that the people who dug them knew the rock well and planned the layout carefully, and that the result is one of the most remarkable pieces of vernacular engineering in the region.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided, one-way route through four excavated floors of tunnels, stables, a church, storerooms, wineries and kitchens carved into volcanic rock.
Best time
Early morning or late afternoon to avoid tour groups; it is cool underground all year, which makes it a good winter and summer stop.
How long
About an hour to an hour and a half.
Tips
Wear grippy closed shoes, expect low, narrow passages and skip it if you are claustrophobic or have mobility problems.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Visitors who want to understand how people lived and hid underground.
- Families
- Children who can follow instructions usually love the tunnels and round stone doors.
- Couples
- A short, memorable adventure that pairs well with a lunch in the town.
- Pair with
- Derinkuyu or the Ihlara Valley on a southern day trip.
- Time needed
- About an hour and a half including the drive from Göreme.
Good questions
How many floors can visitors see?+
Four floors have been excavated, and the museum authority notes that the city is not fully uncovered.
Is Kaymaklı or Derinkuyu better?+
They are similar. Kaymaklı is the widest explored underground city, while Derinkuyu is deeper. If time is short, one is enough.
Is it suitable for claustrophobic visitors?+
Probably not. Passages are narrow and low and can be crowded.
Do people still use the underground spaces?+
Yes. Parts are still used by residents as cellars, storerooms and stables.
How do I check opening hours?+
The museum authority's page lists hours and ticket details. Check it before you go, since hours can change by season.
