Chandni Chowk is Delhi at its most intense. Laid out by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in the seventeenth century as the main avenue of his new capital, with a moonlit canal down the middle that gave the street its name, it is now a tangle of lanes packed with traders, porters, cows, motorbikes and cycle rickshaws. The wires overhead are dense, the shopfronts are tiny, and every turn reveals a new specialty: bridal silks, silver jewellery, printed wedding cards, perfume, paper kites or sweets. On foot it can be tiring, and the best way to take it all in is from the seat of a cycle rickshaw, where you glide through the crowds at a gentle speed and can look up and around. This three-hour tour uses both cycle rickshaws and tuk-tuks to link the main sights of Old Delhi, with a local guide explaining what you are passing. Typical stops include the Red Fort gate, the great Jama Masjid, the Fatehpuri Mosque, the Sikh shrine of Sis Ganj Sahib, a Jain temple and the grain and spice wholesalers at Khari Baoli, which is among the largest spice markets in Asia. It is a lively, sensory introduction to the oldest part of the city that suits first-time visitors, photographers and families looking for something more fun than a coach tour.
How to visit
Tours meet near a metro station such as Chandni Chowk or Lal Quila, or at your hotel if transport is included. Dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, and carry a scarf for the mosque and temples. The lanes are narrow and busy, so keep your bag in front of you, and bring small notes for tips and snacks. Mornings are best for the markets, when shops are opening and the light is soft; afternoons are hotter and louder.
What to expect
You sit two to a rickshaw, pedalled by a local rider, with the guide in a second vehicle or beside you on foot at the busiest points. The ride passes the fort walls, the grand mosque and into the lanes, where you stop to climb a rooftop at the spice market, taste a sweet or a hot jalebi, or look inside a temple or gurdwara.
The ride is bumpy and sometimes close to other traffic, so hold on, and children should be accompanied. Spice dust can make some people sneeze, so keep a handkerchief to hand.
Making the most of it
Choose this tour as a companion to the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, since the three sights sit within a short distance of each other. Take a hat and a bottle of water, wear closed shoes, and avoid carrying valuables. If you have a camera, ask the guide before photographing people, and be patient: many traders enjoy a smile and a chat.
Finish with a meal at one of the famous parantha, kebab or sweet shops, or book a food walk on another day to dig deeper into the flavours of Old Delhi. It is a high-energy, colourful way to experience the old city in a single morning.
Good to know
Old Delhi is crowded and noisy, with uneven pavements and thick traffic, so it can be overwhelming for some visitors. Many shops close on Sundays, which changes the atmosphere, and the spice market is quiet at that time. Keep your phone and wallet secure, and avoid wearing flashy jewellery in the lanes.
What to expect
The experience
A guided three-hour ride through the lanes of Chandni Chowk by cycle rickshaw and tuk-tuk, with stops at mosques, temples and the spice market.
Best time
Mornings, when the markets open and the light is soft.
How long
About three hours.
Tips
Dress modestly, carry a scarf, watch your bag and bring small notes.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors who want the sights and smells of Old Delhi without too much walking.
- Families
- Children enjoy the rickshaw ride, though the lanes are busy and loud.
- Couples
- A shared, lively adventure that ends well with breakfast in the old city.
- Pair with
- Red Fort, Jama Masjid and an Old Delhi food walk.
- Time needed
- A morning.
Good questions
Why is it called Chandni Chowk?+
The name means moonlit square. Shah Jahan’s planners built the avenue with a canal that reflected the moon at night.
Is the rickshaw ride safe?+
Yes, with a reputable guide. The riders are experienced and the pace is slow, but hold on over bumps.
What is Khari Baoli?+
It is the old spice and dry goods market, one of the largest of its kind in Asia, near the Fatehpuri Mosque.
What should I wear?+
Dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, and carry a scarf for religious sites.
How long is the tour?+
About three hours, depending on the route and the stops.
