Fort Shirley and Cabrits National Park

The Cabrits is a forested headland that juts into the sea at the northwest corner of Dominica, close to the town of Portsmouth, and it is protected as a national park that includes both land and the waters around it. On its slopes stand the remains of Fort Shirley, a British garrison built in the late eighteenth century to guard the island and the sheltered anchorage of Prince Rupert Bay. At its height the fort held hundreds of soldiers in barracks, gun batteries, powder magazines and officers' quarters, and after the garrison was withdrawn in the nineteenth century the buildings were left to the forest. Restoration work in recent decades has brought several of them back, so today you can wander among stone walls, cannon pointing to sea and rebuilt rooms, with a small museum explaining life in the garrison. The paths are well made and mostly gentle, and from the higher batteries the view takes in the bay, the coast and the green hills inland.

A good visit takes about two hours, but it is worth giving it longer. Begin at the entrance near the cruise berth and follow the signed route up past the restored buildings, reading the displays as you go. The gun batteries at the top are the highlight, with their long views and sea breeze, and the forest around them is full of birds, lizards and large trees whose roots grip the old stone.

A second trail leads to the other side of the peninsula, where a swampy area and a coastal path offer more wildlife, including herons and, in the water, fish and turtles. The Cabrits also marks the northern end of the Waitukubuli National Trail, which makes it a fitting finish for long-distance walkers.

History here is not a simple story of heroes and defenders. The fort was part of the colonial effort that shaped the island's culture, and the surrounding area includes places linked to the Kalinago people and to the later history of the island's enslaved and freed communities. Museum displays and signage give some of this context, and a local guide can add much more, including stories you will not find on a plaque. The park's management has worked to present a fuller picture, and asking questions is encouraged.

Practical details are straightforward. Wear comfortable shoes with a decent grip, carry water, and bring a hat and sunscreen for the exposed batteries. A small site fee is normally charged for entry to the park, so check the current amount locally. Hours can vary, and the site tends to be quietest in the morning before cruise-ship groups arrive, when the light is also best for photographs. The park is open throughout the year, and the walking is easier in the drier months from about December to April, although afternoon showers can arrive at any time.

Pair the visit with a boat trip on the Indian River, a swim at a nearby beach or lunch in Portsmouth, and consider staying in the north at Secret Bay if you want to see this side of the island at a slower pace. Visitors with limited mobility will find the lower paths manageable, though the upper batteries involve steps and slopes.