Scotts Head and Soufriere Bay

At the very southwest corner of Dominica the land narrows to a thin strip of black sand and rock, and at the end of it a steep headland called Cachacrou rises above the sea. This is Scotts Head, a small fishing village with a long maritime history and one of the best views on the island. A short climb on a stepped path leads to a viewpoint where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean, with the bay curving away on one side and the open sea on the other, and on a clear day the French island of Martinique appears on the horizon. The bay beside the village sits inside the remains of a volcanic crater, which is why the water drops away steeply and the marine life is rich. The nearby village of Soufriere has a pretty seaside church, a working harbour and some of the island's friendliest roadside food. The snorkelling boat tour linked here combines Scotts Head with Champagne Reef and Bubble Beach.

Snorkelling is the main draw. The Soufriere and Scotts Head Marine Reserve protects the bay, and the reef wall and rocky slopes support schools of fish, sea fans, sponges and the occasional turtle or octopus. In places the reef is only a few metres from the shore, so confident swimmers can enter from the beach, but boat trips give access to deeper spots and take you to the volcanic bubbling vents at Champagne Reef.

Calm mornings are best, when the sea is flat and visibility is highest. Wear reef-safe sunscreen, avoid standing on coral and stay clear of boat traffic near the fishing boats at the village landing.

On land, the walk up to the Cachacrou headland takes only a short time but delivers a big payoff, with a ruined gun emplacement at the top, strong breezes and wide views of the coast. It makes an easy, free addition to a day in the south, and it is the starting point of the Waitukubuli National Trail, which many walkers use for a gentle first stage.

In the village itself, the fishermen's catch is the star: simple restaurants and local stalls cook fresh fish, bakes and Creole sides, and sitting by the water with a cold drink while boats come and go is a pleasant way to spend an hour. Soufriere's hot sulphur springs and the surrounding hills add more to explore if you have time.

Plan the visit as part of a southern day. From Roseau the drive takes about thirty to forty minutes along a winding coastal road, which is scenic but slow. Combine it with Champagne Reef, a lunch stop and a slow return at sunset, when the headland glows and the sea turns copper. The trip suits almost everyone, because the walking is brief and the swimming can be as gentle or adventurous as you like.

Bring a hat, water, a towel and sturdy sandals for the stepped path. The sea is calmest from about December to April, although it can be good in any season, and the area is quiet on weekdays with a livelier atmosphere when the villagers gather at weekends. Guests at nearby Jungle Bay find this one of the easiest outings from their door.