Şirince Village

Şirince is the village that most visitors imagine when they picture the Aegean hinterland. About eight kilometres from Selçuk, it clings to a green hillside among vineyards, olive groves and orchards, with narrow lanes of old stone houses, balconies and flower-filled courtyards. The Turkish tourism authorities describe a village known for locally produced wine, traditional cuisine and stone-and-brick houses, which has preserved its heritage. Its population was Greek Orthodox until the exchange of populations in the 1920s, and the old churches, including the Church of St John the Baptist, still stand among the houses. The village is best known for its fruit wines, made from grapes, pomegranates, peaches, blackberries and other local fruit, which are sold in small shops where you are invited to taste before you buy. You will also find olive oil, soap, dried fruit, lace and handmade crafts, and plenty of restaurants and cafes with terraces over the valley. It is a relaxed place to wander, eat and shop, and it makes a pleasant contrast to the ruins. A small-group tour from Selçuk or Kuşadası that combines Ephesus, the Temple of Artemis, the House of the Virgin Mary and Şirince is the easiest way to see it all.

Understanding what you are tasting makes the village more enjoyable. The fruit wines are sweet and aromatic rather than dry, and they vary in quality, so sample several and ask what is made locally. Stalls on the main lane sell mass-produced bottles and souvenirs, while smaller family-run shops offer better wine and genuine olive oil. Bargaining is customary on crafts, and you can often buy a bottle after tasting it. Local specialities include gozleme, stuffed vegetables, grilled meat and simple village mezes, usually served with a view of the valley.

Choose the time of day wisely. The village is at its busiest in the late morning and early afternoon, when tour buses arrive, and it is much quieter in the early evening and on weekdays. If you have a car or a taxi, a late afternoon visit lets you see the village empty out and the light soften, and staying for dinner is one of the highlights of a trip. Minibuses run between Selçuk and Şirince, but they are infrequent, so confirm the return times, and the roads can be narrow on busy days. Wear comfortable shoes, because the lanes are steep and cobbled.

A few honest caveats. Şirince has become popular, and some shops are aimed squarely at tour groups. Prices are higher than in Selçuk. The charm is real, though, if you look for the quieter lanes above the main street, and a stay in a village guesthouse such as the Nişanyan Hotel gives you the place to yourself after the day-trippers have left. Combine it with the Church of St John the Baptist and a walk among the vineyards.