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Ephesus is where the ancient world is easiest to walk through: a Roman city of marble streets, fountains and a library facade that has stood for nearly two thousand years, a few kilometres from the town of Selçuk and the resort coast of Kuşadası.
This guide books the area properly: the Ephesus ancient city and the covered Terrace Houses, the House of the Virgin Mary in the pines, the Ephesus Museum and the Experience Museum, the Basilica of St John and the single column of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It then goes beyond the ruins to Şirince, the hillside wine village of fruit wines and stone houses, a gulet boat trip to the bays of the Aegean, and the long day trip to the white terraces of Pamukkale. Finally it matches you to a base, from a walkable Selçuk hotel to a village cottage and an all-inclusive resort, because here where you sleep decides how early you reach the ruins and how long you stay at the table.
Ephesus Ancient City
One of the best-preserved Roman cities in the Mediterranean, with marble streets, the Library of Celsus and a Great Theatre that still dominates the hillside. Go early, walk downhill from the upper gate, and give it at least three hours.
Terrace Houses of Ephesus
Seven roofed Roman villas on the slope of Curetes Street, with painted walls, mosaic floors and marble fountains. The best window into everyday elite life in Ephesus, on a separate ticket from the main site.
House of the Virgin Mary
A small stone chapel in the pine woods on Bülbül Mountain, revered by Christians and Muslims as the last home of Mary. Quiet, shaded and moving, and an easy stop between Selçuk and Kuşadası.
Ephesus Museum, Selçuk
Selçuk's archaeological museum holds the finds from Ephesus, including the famous Artemis statues, and gives context to the ruins. Open daily, calm and compact, and best visited before or after the site.
One of the best-preserved Roman cities in the Mediterranean, with marble streets, the Library of Celsus and a Great Theatre that still dominates the hillside. Go early, walk downhill from the upper gate, and give it at least three hours.
Seven roofed Roman villas on the slope of Curetes Street, with painted walls, mosaic floors and marble fountains. The best window into everyday elite life in Ephesus, on a separate ticket from the main site.
A small stone chapel in the pine woods on Bülbül Mountain, revered by Christians and Muslims as the last home of Mary. Quiet, shaded and moving, and an easy stop between Selçuk and Kuşadası.
Selçuk's archaeological museum holds the finds from Ephesus, including the famous Artemis statues, and gives context to the ruins. Open daily, calm and compact, and best visited before or after the site.
FreeOnce one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, now a single reconstructed column on a quiet site in Selçuk. Free, fast and atmospheric, and an easy add-on to Ephesus and the Basilica of St John.
A hillside village of whitewashed stone houses and terracotta roofs, about eight kilometres from Selçuk, known for fruit wines, olive oil and slow lunches. Go in the afternoon, taste before you buy, and stay for the evening light.
White travertine terraces, warm mineral pools and the ruined Roman spa city of Hierapolis, about three hours inland. A long but unforgettable day trip from Kuşadası or Selçuk with hotel pickup.
A full-day gulet cruise with swimming stops in quiet Aegean bays, lunch on board and soft drinks, from Kuşadası port or the Güzelçamlı side of Dilek Peninsula National Park. The easiest way to add a sea day to the ruins.
The ruined sixth-century basilica built over the tomb traditionally of Saint John, on Ayasuluk Hill above Selçuk, with the medieval citadel behind it and the Isa Bey Mosque below. Great views and fewer crowds than Ephesus.
An immersive museum inside the ancient city, opposite the Great Theatre, that rebuilds streets, houses and shops with displays and media. Included in the Ephesus ticket and a good primer for families.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
Kuşadası coast
A large all-inclusive beach resort on the coast near Kuşadası, with three outdoor pools, a private beach, a spa and five restaurants. The splurge for travellers who want a sea holiday with Ephesus a day trip away.
Rates on Expedia →Kuşadası Marina
A four-star hotel close to Kuşadası Marina and the beach, with a seasonal pool, a free breakfast buffet and free parking. A practical mid-range base in town for cruise passengers and day-trippers.
Rates on Expedia →Şirince
A hillside guesthouse of restored stone houses and cottages in Şirince, with a restaurant, garden, library and free breakfast. The place to stay if you want the village to yourself after the day-trippers leave.
Rates on Expedia →Selçuk historic centre
A simple hotel in Selçuk's historic district with a seasonal pool, rooftop terrace and bar, a few minutes' walk from the Ephesus Museum, the Isa Bey Mosque and the Basilica of St John.
Rates on Expedia →Selçuk historic centre
A budget-friendly Selçuk hotel on St John Street with breakfast included, free parking and a terrace, two minutes from the Basilica of St John and a short walk from the station and museum.
Rates on Expedia →A practical first-timer plan for Ephesus, Selçuk, Şirince and Kuşadası: what to book ahead, how to get around, how many days to allow and where each headline sight fits.
A guide to the three bases for visiting Ephesus, Selçuk, Şirince and Kuşadası, with five hotels across budgets and what each area is like.
