Mogador Island and the Purple Islands

Look west from the ramparts of Essaouira and you will see a low, rocky island rising from the grey-green Atlantic. This is Mogador Island, the largest of a small group once known as the Purple Islands. Its history reaches back more than two thousand years, when ancient traders harvested sea snails here to make the famed purple dye prized across the Mediterranean. Later it hosted a fort and a prison, and today it is mostly quiet, with wheeling seabirds, crumbling walls and wind-bent vegetation. For most visitors it is a backdrop rather than a destination, adding drama to every sunset photo from the Skala de la Ville and the beach. Access to the island is controlled because it is a protected area for nesting birds and heritage remains. Local boat operators sometimes arrange trips under specific rules, and permission and conditions can change. Treat any visit as something to check on the spot, and enjoy the view from the shore as a worthwhile experience in itself.

Understanding the island deepens your appreciation of the view. The purple dye made here came from murex shells, which were crushed and processed in a smelly, labour-intensive operation, and the colour was so prized that it became linked with royalty and wealth. Archaeological work has uncovered traces of this activity, which is why the group of islets carries its colourful name. Later, the island was fortified by Portuguese and then by local rulers, and a prison stood there for a time. These layers help explain why the harbour has been so valuable for so long.

Wildlife is another reason the island matters. The rocks and cliffs host colonies of seabirds, and the area is known for a rare falcon that nests in summer. Because of this, the island is managed with care, and access is limited to protect nesting sites. If you are interested in birds, bring binoculars to the ramparts or beach and scan the rocks. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times, when birds are active and the light is soft.

If you hope to make a boat trip, ask your riad or the harbour authorities what is currently allowed and whether any operators are authorised. Sea conditions can be rough, especially in strong wind, and trips may be cancelled at short notice. Do not assume that landing is possible, and never approach the island on an unofficial boat that cannot show proper permission. Safety jackets, a windproof layer and sturdy shoes are sensible if you do go.

For most people, the best plan is to enjoy the island from land. Walk the rampart at sunset and watch the light turn the rock gold, then continue to the beach for a longer view. Pair this with a visit to the Skala du Port and the fishing harbour, where boats pass the island on their way out to sea. A short stop at a cafe terrace with a good westward view completes the experience. Whether or not you set foot there, Mogador Island is part of the character of the town.

Photographers will find the island a rewarding subject through a long lens, particularly when boats cross the foreground or birds wheel above the rocks. Haze and spray can soften distant views in the afternoon, so aim for the clearer hours of the morning or the last light of the evening. Whatever you decide about boat trips, treat the shoreline gently, avoid disturbing wildlife and take your rubbish with you so the protected area stays unspoilt for the next generation of visitors.