Place Moulay Hassan and the Clock Tower

Place Moulay Hassan is the social heart of Essaouira, a broad, paved square that sits where the medina opens toward the fishing harbour and the sea. Flanked by cafes, ice cream counters and seafood restaurants, it is the kind of place where you can sit for an hour with a mint tea and still feel you are doing something worthwhile. The whitewashed buildings and blue shutters frame the view toward the Skala du Port, gulls wheel overhead, and the light changes constantly as clouds move in from the ocean. Nothing is charged for simply being here, and nobody expects you to hurry. It is the easiest place in town to take a break between the lanes, the ramparts and the harbour, and it works as a natural meeting point whenever your group splits up for an afternoon. Just off the square stands the Clock Tower, a slim landmark that locals use as a navigational anchor. If you are ever unsure which way you are heading in the medina, the combination of the square, the tower and the sea gives you a quick fix. Many visitors use the square as the start or end of a walk, since the Skala du Port, the harbour arch and the beach are all within a couple of minutes on foot.

The square has been the town's main gathering space for as long as the port has operated, and it still behaves that way. Mornings are quiet, with shopkeepers sweeping the paving, waiters setting out chairs and a few early walkers heading down to the boats. By lunchtime the terraces fill, and the mix of residents, day visitors from Marrakech and long-stay travellers gives the place a pleasantly cosmopolitan feel.

In the evening, when the wind drops a little and the stone turns warm, the square is at its best, with families strolling, musicians occasionally setting up and the cafes busy until late.

Eating and drinking here is easy but not always the cheapest, because you are paying for the position. Cafes serve mint tea, coffee, fresh orange juice and pastries, while the restaurants around the edges specialise in grilled fish, tagines and simple salads. If you want to compare, glance at several menus before you sit, and agree on what you want before ordering fish by weight.

For a cheaper and more local meal, walk the few steps to the harbour grills or into the lanes behind the square, then return here for the view and a final tea.

The square also acts as a stage for the town's festivals. During the summer music festival, concerts and street performances use the open space, and the whole centre fills with listeners, so if your dates overlap, expect crowds, a festive mood and more difficulty finding a quiet table. At other times of year it is calm enough for children to run about and for photographers to catch the interplay of light on white walls. The wind can be sharp even on a sunny day, so choose a sheltered corner or keep a jacket handy.

A few practical tips help. Use the square as your orientation point, because the main lanes of the medina start on its edge and the beach is a short walk beyond the port arch. Vendors and guides may approach you, and a polite refusal is normally enough. Keep valuables secure in busy periods, and if you are sitting for a long time, ask for the bill when you order your last drink, because service can be unhurried.

Combine the square with the Skala du Port, the harbour and a sunset on the ramparts for a relaxed half day that needs no tickets and no planning.