Two hilltop sights give you the picture of Fes that you will not see from inside the lanes. Borj Nord is a sixteenth-century fortress built by the Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansour in 1582 as part of a line of cannon-equipped forts overlooking the old city. It later served as a barracks and a prison before becoming Morocco’s national arms museum in 1963. Inside, more than a thousand weapons and pieces of armour are arranged across about fifteen rooms from prehistory to modern times, including a famous bronze cannon, and the ramparts give a wide view over the medina. A short walk away, the Merenid, or Marinid, Tombs are the ruins of fourteenth-century royal burial monuments on a ridge overlooking the city. The tombs themselves are mostly crumbled, but the hillside is the classic spot to watch the sun set over a sea of rooftops.
The arms museum charges only a modest ticket, and it is closed one day a week, usually Tuesday, with a break in the middle of the day, so check hours before you go. The collection is laid out chronologically, and panels are in French and Arabic. Photography inside is not allowed, but you can photograph from the ramparts. Allow about an hour for the rooms, then step out onto the walls where the view takes in the green minarets of the medina, the red city walls and, on a clear day, the Middle Atlas beyond.
The Merenid Tombs are a very short drive or a steady uphill walk from Borj Nord, and are open as a free public viewpoint. Come about an hour before sunset to claim a spot, bring a jacket in cooler months and expect other visitors to arrive for the same reason. Local children sometimes offer to guide you for tips, and you can politely decline. There is little shade and no facilities on the hill, so carry water in warm weather. Many half-day city tours include a panoramic stop at the tombs. If you are travelling independently, a petit taxi from Bab Bou Jeloud is the easiest way up, and you can arrange for the driver to wait or to take you back down. Take care on loose ground, especially after rain.
What to expect
The experience
A visit to the arms museum and ramparts of Borj Nord, then a short walk or drive to the Merenid Tombs for the sunset view.
Best time
Late afternoon, arriving about an hour before sunset.
How long
One and a half to two hours across both sites.
Tips
Check the museum’s closing day and midday break, carry water, and take a jacket for the evening breeze.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Photographers and anyone who wants to understand the shape of the medina from above.
- Families
- The cannons and weapons interest older children, and the open hillside gives them room to roam, but watch the ramparts.
- Couples
- Time it for sunset and watch the call to prayer ripple across the rooftops.
- Pair with
- Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah are on the same side of the city for an easy half-day.
- Time needed
- Plan two hours, or a sunset-only stop of about forty-five minutes.
Good questions
What is inside Borj Nord?+
It houses Morocco’s national arms museum, with more than a thousand weapons and pieces of armour arranged by period. Photography is not allowed inside the museum.
Who built Borj Nord?+
The Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansour ordered it in 1582. It was part of a line of forts above the old city.
When is the best time for the Merenid Tombs view?+
Roughly an hour before sunset, when the light turns warm over the medina. It is also pleasant in early morning, with fewer people.
Is there an entrance fee?+
The arms museum has a small ticket, while the tombs viewpoint is free. Prices and hours can change, so check locally.
Which day is Borj Nord closed?+
It is typically closed on Tuesdays and has a midday break, with hours changing in Ramadan. Confirm on the day.
