Fes el-Jdid, or New Fes, is only new by Fes standards. The Marinid sultans founded it in the thirteenth century, around 1276, as a fortified royal city beside the older medina, and it has been the seat of power ever since. Today its most photographed sight is the Dar al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace, whose enormous brass doors set in a tiled gateway are a favourite subject for photographers. The palace itself is not open to the public, but the gates and the large forecourt can be seen at any time of day. Behind the palace, the Mellah is the old Jewish quarter, distinguished from the medina by its tall houses with wooden balconies that face the street, an unusual feature in a Moroccan town. Further on you reach the Grand Rue, the broad main street of the district, lined with shops, cafes and the old Makina area. It is a calmer, less hectic counterpart to Fes el-Bali.
A visit here naturally begins at the palace gates. The brass doors are hand-worked and the surrounding tile and carved cedar are among the finest modern examples of Moroccan craft, restored and polished regularly. Photography from the forecourt is welcome, but remain at a respectful distance from the guarded entrance and do not try to enter. From the gates, a short walk leads into the Mellah, which was established in the fifteenth century as a walled quarter for the city’s Jewish community, close to the palace for protection. Its houses and balconies recall the Andalusian influence, and the small shops sell jewellery and silver.
The Jewish heritage here is real and well worth a visit. The old Jewish cemetery, with its rows of whitewashed tombs on the slope, and the Ibn Danan synagogue, which has been restored as a heritage site, are the best-known places to see this history, though visiting arrangements and fees change, so ask your guide to confirm what is open. The district sits to the southwest of the medina and is easy to reach by petit taxi. Many city tours include the palace gates as a quick stop, and for a more relaxed experience you can walk the Grand Rue and visit the nearby Jnan Sbil gardens, a calm green park by the palace walls. Go in the morning for softer light, and wear comfortable shoes since the walks are longer than they look.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk (or short guided stop) taking in the palace gates, the Mellah’s balconied streets and the Grand Rue.
Best time
Morning, when the light on the brass doors is soft and the streets are calm.
How long
Ninety minutes to two hours at an easy pace.
Tips
Photograph the gates from a respectful distance, ask your guide which synagogue or cemetery visits are open, and wear comfortable shoes.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Visitors who want the royal and Jewish history of Fes away from the medina crowds.
- Families
- Open streets and few steps make it easy with children, and the photo stop at the doors is short.
- Couples
- Walk the Mellah’s balconied lanes, then rest in the Jnan Sbil gardens.
- Pair with
- Borj Nord and the Merenid Tombs are a short drive for a panoramic view of the whole city.
- Time needed
- Plan about two hours, or longer if you visit the cemetery and synagogue.
Good questions
Can you go inside the Royal Palace in Fes?+
No, the Dar al-Makhzen is a working royal residence and not open to the public. The gates and forecourt can be seen and photographed from outside.
What is the Mellah?+
It is the old Jewish quarter of Fes, established in the fifteenth century near the palace. It is known for houses with balconies facing the street.
Is Fes el-Jdid really new?+
It is new only in comparison to the ninth-century medina, since the Marinids founded it in the thirteenth century. It remains a historic royal district.
Is there an entry fee?+
Walking the streets and viewing the gates is free. Sites such as the synagogue may charge a small admission, and tours are available if you prefer a guide.
How do I get there?+
Take a petit taxi from the medina or the new town, which is quick and inexpensive. Agree on the meter or fare first.
