Gdynia is the third city of the Tricity, and the opposite of Gdańsk in almost every way. It was a fishing village until the 1920s, when the newly independent Poland decided to build a port of its own on the Baltic coast, and what grew up was a confident, modern city of clean lines, white facades and wide streets, one of the finest collections of interwar modernist architecture in Europe. The visitor highlight is on the waterfront at the South Pier: ORP Błyskawica, a destroyer built at the English shipyard at Cowes and finished about two years before the Second World War. She and her sister ship Grom were sent to Britain just before the war began, so they were not in Poland to fight in its defence. Błyskawica served in the Norwegian campaign and at the D-Day landings, and returned to Poland two years after the war. The Polish tourism board calls her the oldest destroyer in the world. She is now a museum ship, with an exhibition under the deck.
The ship
Boarding a warship is a very different experience from a museum visit. You can walk her decks, look at the guns and see how the crew lived and worked in cramped quarters, and the exhibition below deck adds context about her wartime career. The ship is run by the Naval Museum, and the opening times vary by season, with a longer season in summer and reduced access in winter, so check the current schedule before travelling. Wear sensible shoes, as the steps are steep and the decks can be slippery.
The waterfront
The South Pier, where the ship is moored, is lined with promenades and has views over the bay and the harbour, with the sailing ship Dar Pomorza, a museum ship in its own right, usually moored nearby. The Gdynia Emigration Museum in the former Maritime Station tells the story of the Poles who sailed from here to the Americas, a good second stop for an interest in migration. A walk along the beach at Kamienna Góra, the hill behind the city, gives a view of the whole bay.
Architecture
Gdynia's modernist streets are best explored on foot from the station down Świętojańska Street to the sea. Look for the rounded corners, flat roofs and long balconies of the 1930s apartment blocks and offices, and stop for a coffee in one of the local cafes, which are generally less touristy and cheaper than those in Gdańsk.
Getting there
The SKM commuter train runs frequently from Gdańsk Główny, taking about half an hour to Gdynia Główna, and trains to Gdynia also stop at Sopot and Oliwa, so you can combine the three in a day. Gdynia is a good choice for a second or third day, when the Main Town has been explored and you want a change of scene.
Who it suits
Naval enthusiasts, architecture fans, families who enjoy boats and anyone looking for a break from medieval brick. Pair it with Sopot for a full day on the coast.
Practical tips
Buy a contactless ticket on the train, keep your phone charged for maps, and carry a windproof jacket, since the South Pier is open to the sea breeze. If the weather turns, the Emigration Museum and the cafes in the city centre make good shelter, and the ride back to Gdańsk is quick and frequent in the evening.
What to expect
The experience
A day trip by commuter train to Gdynia, with a walk around the museum-ship destroyer, the South Pier promenade and the modernist city centre.
Best time
A clear spring or summer day, when the ship has its longest opening times and the waterfront is at its best.
How long
Three to four hours including the train, longer if you add the Emigration Museum.
Tips
Check the ship's current opening schedule, wear sensible shoes for steep steps and take the SKM train from Gdańsk Główny.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Naval history fans and architecture lovers looking for a change from the medieval Main Town.
- Families
- Children enjoy climbing around a real warship and walking the pier.
- Couples
- Stroll the South Pier and have a relaxed lunch in a modernist cafe.
- Pair with
- Sopot Pier and Oliwa Cathedral on the same SKM line.
- Time needed
- Half a day, or a full day with Sopot.
Good questions
What is ORP Błyskawica?+
It is a Polish destroyer built at Cowes in England, finished about two years before the Second World War, now a museum ship at the South Pier in Gdynia.
How do I get from Gdańsk to Gdynia?+
Take the SKM commuter train from Gdańsk Główny; the journey takes about half an hour, with stops at Oliwa and Sopot.
Did Błyskawica fight in the war?+
Yes. She was sent to Britain just before the war and served in the Norwegian campaign and at the D-Day landings.
Why is Gdynia known for architecture?+
The city was built from the 1920s as Poland's new Baltic port, and it has a large collection of interwar modernist buildings.
Can I combine Gdynia with Sopot?+
Yes. Both are on the same SKM line, so a combined day along the coast is easy.
