Saigon is a city that eats constantly. Breakfast is on the pavement before the sun is properly up, lunch is a plate of rice in a shaded alley, and the evening belongs to snack stalls, seafood grills and beer on plastic stools. The food is also a good way into the city, because so much of it is made in the open, in front of you, by people who have cooked the same dish for decades. This guide covers what to order, how to eat well without a phrasebook, and which experiences are worth booking.
The dishes to look for
Start with pho, the beef or chicken noodle soup that most visitors know, which in the south comes with a plate of fresh herbs, bean sprouts and lime to add as you like. Banh mi, the baguette sandwich with pate, pickled vegetables, herbs and chilli, is the classic breakfast or snack and costs very little. Com tam, broken rice, is a southern favourite, usually served with grilled pork and a fried egg. Banh xeo are crisp rice-flour pancakes folded around prawns and bean sprouts, wrapped in lettuce and herbs and dipped in sauce. Goi cuon, the fresh spring rolls, and bun thit nuong, noodles with grilled pork and herbs, make good lighter meals in the heat.
How street food works
The best stalls often do one dish and do it well, so look for the place with a queue of locals and a short menu. Many have a small plastic table and stools, a pot or grill in front, and a price that is clear or easy to ask. Point and smile if you do not speak Vietnamese, and do not worry about the plastic chairs, which are part of the experience. Chopsticks and spoons are usually on the table. Ask for a bottled drink or tea, and be sensible: choose busy places where food is cooked fresh and served hot, and carry hand wipes.
Coffee
Vietnamese coffee is strong, brewed through a small metal filter and often sweetened with condensed milk. Ca phe sua da, iced coffee with condensed milk, is the one to try in the heat. Many cafes across District 1 and District 3 have a relaxed, long-sitting culture, so you can take an hour over a single glass. Egg coffee, a creamy drink more associated with Hanoi, turns up in some cafes too, and coconut coffee is a common cold treat. If you prefer tea, jasmine and lotus teas are everywhere.
Markets and neighbourhoods
Ben Thanh Market has a large food hall at the back with stalls serving many of the dishes above in one place, which makes it an easy first meal if you want to sample several things, though it is busy and the prices are a little higher than in the side streets. For a more local feel, the streets of Cholon, the Chinese quarter, are good for dim sum, roast duck and noodle soups, and District 4, across the river from the centre, has a reputation for late-night seafood and snail restaurants, where groups share plates of shellfish with beer. Bui Vien Street is lively but aimed at visitors, so treat it as a bar street rather than a place for the best food.
Food tours
The easiest way to learn all of this in one evening is a guided tour. The scooter street food and craft beer tour in our list collects you from your hotel and takes you through several districts, with a local rider and a plan to try dishes you might not otherwise order. It suits adventurous eaters who are comfortable on the back of a bike. If you would rather go slowly, a walking food tour in District 1 or 4 covers similar ground on foot.
Cooking classes
A Vietnamese cooking class with a market visit is a good morning activity, especially on a day with hot or wet weather. You usually shop for ingredients with the teacher, learn to prepare three or four dishes, and eat what you make. It is a good choice for couples, families and anyone who wants to cook the food at home afterwards.
Practical tips
Tell people about allergies clearly, since fish sauce, peanuts and shellfish are in many dishes. Carry small notes for stalls, since many do not take cards or foreign currency. Tipping is not expected at street stalls but is appreciated in restaurants. Finally, eat at off-peak times if you want a quieter meal: lunch rushes are loud from about midday, and the evening crowd builds from early evening.
If you want a base close to good food, a hotel near Ben Thanh Market and Le Thanh Ton puts a wide choice of restaurants within a short walk.
