Most visitors to Srinagar spend at least one day in the mountains, and three destinations dominate: Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg. Each is a half-day drive or less from the city, each has its own character, and each changes with the season. This guide compares them and explains how to plan. As ever, check your government's current travel advice and local conditions before you go, and follow your driver's and operator's guidance on routes and timings.
Gulmarg
About two hours from Srinagar, Gulmarg is a high alpine meadow best known for its gondola, one of the highest cable cars in the world, and for winter skiing. In summer the meadow is green with wildflowers, ponies and picnickers, and in winter it is deep in snow. The gondola climbs in two stages toward Apharwat, with views across the Pir Panjal range. Tickets are usually bought separately at the lift, queues can be long in peak seasons, and the lift can close in high winds or snow. Bring warm layers and gloves even in summer. Gulmarg is the best choice if you want dramatic mountain scenery, snow, or a cable-car ride.
Pahalgam
About three hours from Srinagar, Pahalgam is a pine-forest village on the Lidder River. It is gentler and greener than Gulmarg, with river walks, meadows, Betaab Valley and Aru Valley a short drive away. Pony rides and picnics are popular. On the way you pass orchards, villages and, in October and November, the saffron fields of Pampore. Pahalgam is the best choice if you want a relaxed, scenic day, a riverside setting or a gateway to trekking. It is also the best candidate for an overnight stay, since the drive is longer.
Sonamarg
About two to three hours from Srinagar, Sonamarg lies in the Sindh valley beneath glaciers and peaks. A pony ride or walk to Thajiwas Glacier is the main activity, and the broad valley floor with its turquoise river is photogenic. Sonamarg is also the starting point of the Great Lakes trek and the road toward Zoji La and Ladakh. It is best from May to September, when roads and meadows are open, and in winter access can be limited by snow. Choose Sonamarg if you want glacier views and a sense of high-mountain wilderness.
Choosing between them
If you have one day and love snow or cable cars, choose Gulmarg. If you want river, forest and an easy pace, choose Pahalgam. If you want glaciers and big landscapes, choose Sonamarg. With two days, combine Gulmarg and Pahalgam, or stay overnight in one of them. With three, do all three on separate days and enjoy a rest day in Srinagar between.
Planning the day
Leave early, ideally by seven or eight in the morning, to beat traffic and give yourself time at the destination. Roads are winding and can be slow, so allow generous travel time and avoid tight flight schedules on the same day. Confirm what the tour or taxi price includes, such as entry fees, gondola tickets, pony rides and lunch. Agree pony rates before you set off, and carry cash in small notes. Dress in layers, with a rain jacket in the warmer months and proper winter gear from November to March.
Private cars and group tours
A private car and driver is flexible and comfortable, and day-trip products are available at a range of prices, including low-cost options that simply provide a vehicle and driver. Group tours can be cheaper and sociable but follow a fixed schedule. In either case, ask about the vehicle, the driver's experience on mountain roads and the cancellation terms.
What to bring
Water, snacks, sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, a warm layer, a rain jacket, cash, a power bank and a copy of your ID. Bring any medication you need, and be aware that mobile coverage can be patchy in the mountains.
Responsible travel
The meadows are fragile and are used by herders and their flocks, so keep to paths, carry out rubbish, avoid plastic bags and ask before photographing local people. Hiring local guides and ponies supports mountain communities.
A sample day
Leave Srinagar at seven, stop for tea and bread on the way, reach the destination by mid-morning, spend the middle of the day on the main sight and a simple lunch, start back by three or four, and arrive in time for dinner. On shorter winter days, bring the schedule forward by an hour, because mountain roads are best driven in daylight.
