Borjomi, Rabati and Vardzia

This is the grand tour of southern Georgia in a day. From Kutaisi, the route runs through Borjomi, a leafy spa town famed for its mineral water, to Akhaltsikhe, where the restored Rabati Castle contains a mosque, a church, a synagogue and a museum, and on to Vardzia, a twelfth-century cave monastery carved into a cliff face with hundreds of rooms. It is a very long day, often twelve to fourteen hours, but it covers some of the most spectacular heritage sights in the country. Group tours are inexpensive. Many travellers consider Vardzia among the highlights of Georgia, so it is worth the effort.

Borjomi is the first stop. The town sits in a forested gorge, and its central park contains the mineral springs that supply the famous bottled water. Visitors can taste the warm, salty water from a spring tap and walk the shaded paths. The Romanov-era palace of the Grand Duke, wooden villas and a cable car add charm. It is a gentle introduction before the long drive onwards.

Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe was restored in recent years to show the layered history of the region, with a Georgian church, an Ottoman-style mosque, a synagogue, a citadel and a small museum within the walls. The mix of faiths reflects centuries of rule by different powers. The castle is well kept, and the views from the towers over the town are good. A guided visit explains the story and highlights the best features.

Vardzia is the climax. Carved into a volcanic cliff in the twelfth century under Queen Tamar, it once housed thousands of monks and had hundreds of rooms, a church with surviving frescoes and a network of tunnels. Visitors climb through passages and chambers, looking out over the Mtkvari valley. The scale is hard to grasp until you are there. Wear sturdy shoes, as the paths can be steep, and bring water and a hat in summer.

Be realistic about the distance. The round trip from Kutaisi is long, and the roads in the hills can be slow, so set off early and settle in. Some travellers prefer to stay overnight in Borjomi or Akhaltsikhe and spread the visit over two days. Whatever you choose, pack snacks, wear layers and expect a full but memorable day.

If twelve hours or more in a vehicle sounds like too much, consider options that shorten the day. Some travellers drop Borjomi and visit only Rabati and Vardzia, while others stay overnight in Akhaltsikhe, which makes the second morning at Vardzia much calmer. Check that your tour includes entrance fees, a guide at Vardzia and a lunch stop, and choose a vehicle with good seating. Bring a light jacket for the cool interiors of the cave city and a torch or phone light for dark corridors, and expect steep stairs and uneven floors.

Try to keep your expectations flexible, since road works, weather and traffic can shift the timing of each stop. Eat a proper breakfast, because lunch may be late, and carry a bottle of water and some snacks. Taking a hat and sunscreen in summer is wise, as Vardzia is exposed and sunny, and in spring and autumn a windproof jacket is better. A small daypack with a rain layer keeps you ready.