The Red Mile

Most visitors think of Thoroughbreds when they think of Lexington, but the city has another racing tradition that is older and quieter: harness racing. The Red Mile, a short drive from downtown, opened in 1875 and is often cited as one of the fastest tracks in the sport and among the oldest still operating. It sits on a plot of land that once belonged to the Kentucky Trotting Horse Breeders Association, and the grandstand and the long straight oval give it the feel of a country fairground. Harness racing is a different spectacle from the Thoroughbred version. The horses pull a lightweight two-wheeled cart called a sulky and race either at a trot or a pace, with the driver sitting behind. The Red Mile hosts the Kentucky Futurity, one of the sport's classic races for trotters, and the autumn Grand Circuit meet attracts top horses and drivers from across North America. Outside the meet, the venue hosts simulcast racing and other events, and the calendar changes from season to season, so check before you plan. A visit is a relaxed, low-cost way to see racing with fewer crowds than Keeneland. Racegoers can often stand close to the rail and hear the thunder of hooves and the clatter of sulkies, and the pace of the afternoon is unhurried. For many travellers, it is an enjoyable counterpoint to the elegance of Keeneland, with a more local, working-class feel and a loyal following.

Arrive in time to explore the grandstand and the paddock before the first race, and check whether the day's card includes a stakes race. Dress comfortably, and bring a hat in the early autumn sun. Food and drink are generally available on site, and it is worth asking about the history of the track from staff who have often been there for decades.

Because the schedule varies, confirm the live racing dates and any simulcast hours with the track before you visit. Entry rules, minimum age requirements and the availability of gaming areas should be checked with the venue. Do not assume that the venue is open for tours outside racing times.

If you are in town in late September or early October, combine The Red Mile with a day at the Kentucky Horse Park or a visit to a farm, and you will have seen both worlds of Kentucky horse racing in a single trip.

Harness racing has its own culture, and the regulars are generally happy to explain it. Ask about the difference between trotters and pacers, how drivers read the pace and why the Kentucky Futurity matters. A small bet is optional, and many visitors simply enjoy the thunder of the stretch run from the rail. If you collect racing history, the track's long record of records and champions is a rewarding thread to follow with a friendly local.

If you want a longer racing day, check whether a simulcast card is running, which lets you watch races from famous tracks across the country on screens in the grandstand. Even then, the live races are the highlight, so time your arrival to catch at least a few post parades.

Bring a hat, and ask staff about the best viewing spots along the rail.