Lombok's cooking is simple, spicy and proudly local. The island's Sasak people eat a lot of rice, vegetables, grilled meat and fish, flavored with chili, shrimp paste and tamarind, and the result is closer to eastern Indonesian food than to the more tourist-oriented menus of Bali. You will eat well at every price level, from roadside warungs to hotel dining rooms, if you know what to look for.
Dishes to try
Ayam taliwang is the island's signature dish, a young chicken grilled over coals and served with a fiery chili and shrimp paste sauce. Plecing kangkung is water spinach, blanched and served cold with a tomato and chili sambal and a squeeze of lime. Beberuk terong pairs chopped eggplant with a fresh chili and shrimp paste dressing. Sate rembiga, from the Rembiga neighborhood of Mataram, is spiced beef satay, and sate pusut mixes minced meat, grated coconut and spices on a flat skewer. Nasi balap puyung is a plate of rice with shredded chicken, peanuts and a sharp sambal, and ares is a soup made from banana stem, often cooked slowly with spices. If you like the heat, you are in the right place. If you do not, ask for the sambal on the side.
Chili warning
Sasak food can be properly hot. Say tidak pedas, or not spicy, when you order, ask for sauces separately and keep plain rice and a cold drink within reach. Dishes at tourist restaurants are usually toned down, while warungs cook as locals eat.
Where to eat on the main island
Senggigi has the widest range, with seafront restaurants, simple warungs and a few cafes along the main road, and it is the easiest place to eat well after a day of exploring. Kuta and the south coast have a growing number of cafes, surf bars and beachfront places, many with a relaxed, backpacker-friendly feel. Inland and in villages, warungs serve a handful of dishes at a very low cost, and a hired driver will usually know where the locals eat. Mataram is the place to hunt for local specialties, including satay and chicken dishes, at the busy eateries popular with residents.
Eating on the Gilis
Gili Trawangan has the biggest choice, from beach cafes with smoothie bowls and salads to seafood grills and international restaurants, and an evening night market near the harbor is a popular place for fresh grilled fish, satay and noodles. Gili Air is calmer and more local, with seafood and Indonesian dishes in family-run places, and Gili Meno has a handful of quiet beachfront restaurants. Prices are higher than on the main island because everything arrives by boat, so expect to pay more for the same plate. If a menu does not show prices, ask first.
Drinks and alcohol
Lombok is predominantly Muslim, and alcohol is not served everywhere. You will find beer, cocktails and wine at tourist-oriented bars and restaurants in Senggigi, Kuta and on the Gilis, especially Trawangan, and at larger hotels, but local warungs and villages usually do not serve it. Drink in public places with courtesy, avoid public intoxication in conservative areas and be aware that opening hours and rules can change during Ramadan. Local coffee is good, fresh juices are everywhere and a young coconut is the best way to cool down on the beach.
Water and food safety
Do not drink the tap water on Lombok or the Gilis. Use bottled or filtered water, and on the Gilis look for refill stations that cut down on plastic. Ice in tourist restaurants is generally made from purified water, but if you are unsure, ask. Choose busy stalls with high turnover, eat food that is hot and freshly cooked, and wash your hands before eating. If you have a sensitive stomach, introduce the spicier dishes gradually.
Cooking classes and markets
A cooking class is one of the nicest ways to learn how sambal, satay and plecing kangkung are made, and several hotels and local hosts offer them, including at Hotel Tugu Lombok. A market visit at the start often adds a lot to the experience, because you see the chilies, spices and tropical fruit that give the cuisine its character. Ask in advance about vegetarian options, as most classes can adapt.
Sunset drinks
Senggigi beach is the classic place for a drink as the sun goes down over the strait, and Sudamala's restaurant looks out over the same sunsets. On Gili Trawangan, the western beach is the traditional sunset spot, and on the south coast, Merese Hill and the beachfront cafes at Kuta and Selong Belanak make fine viewpoints.
A few manners
Eat with your right hand if you eat with your hands, tip modestly if service is not already included, and carry small notes because change can be hard to find. If you are invited to share a meal in a village, accept graciously and try everything offered.
