Malagasy cooking is rooted in rice, which is eaten at almost every meal, served with a flavourful accompaniment called laoka. The laoka might be zebu beef, pork, chicken, fish or beans, simmered with onions, tomatoes, ginger and garlic, and often with greens such as the leaves of the cassava or the spilanthes plant. The cuisine reflects the island's mix of African, Southeast Asian, Indian and French influences, and the result is gentle and fragrant rather than fiery, with hot chilli relishes served on the side. A cooking experience in Antananarivo is a way to taste these dishes and to understand the way meals are shared. A typical session begins with a visit to a market or a talk about the ingredients, followed by a hands-on class in which participants prepare several dishes under a local cook's guidance. Common examples include romazava, a stew of zebu and leafy greens, ravitoto, made from pounded cassava leaves, and fresh salads and relishes. Sessions often end with a meal around a table, with a drink of rice water or local rum in the traditional style. Tasting tours are also available for those who prefer to sample a range of street snacks and sweets without cooking, and they reveal a different side of the city.
This is an easy activity to fit into the start or end of a trip, when you are in the capital for a night or two. Sessions take place in the city, usually in a home kitchen, a restaurant or a cooking studio, and the hosts are generally welcoming and flexible. Let the operator know about dietary needs, allergies and preferences in advance, since many Malagasy dishes contain pork, zebu or fish, and vegetarian options may need to be arranged. If you have a short stopover, ask whether a shorter tasting is available.
Pay attention to the foods you may meet. Rice is the staple, and the dish is served with laoka in generous portions. Look out for mofo gasy, a small sweet rice cake sold in the morning, koba, a sweet made of peanuts and rice flour wrapped in leaves, and lasary, a tangy relish of pickled vegetables. Tropical fruit such as lychee, mango and pineapple is abundant in season, and vanilla, cloves and pepper from the island flavour many sweet and savoury dishes. Zebu is the prized meat and is served for celebrations.
Practical tips are simple. Wear comfortable clothing that can get messy, and bring a notebook if you want to take down recipes. Ask the host how to find some of the ingredients at home, since many are available in specialist shops. Tipping the cook and host is appreciated, and a small gift of coffee or tea is welcome. As with any food in the country, drink bottled or filtered water, wash fruit and eat at busy places, and ask the host to guide you through the markets and street food stalls with confidence.
If you have time for only one cultural activity in the capital, this is a gentle and rewarding choice. It gives context to everything you will eat for the rest of the trip, from roadside stalls to lodge dinners, and it is a good way to meet local people in a relaxed setting. Leave room for dessert, since sweets made from bananas, coconut and vanilla often end the meal.
What to expect
The experience
A guided food experience in Antananarivo with hands-on cooking and a shared meal, sometimes starting at a market.
Best time
Morning for the market, or late afternoon for a shared dinner.
How long
Roughly half a day, depending on the session.
Tips
Mention dietary needs in advance, wear comfortable clothes and drink bottled or filtered water.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and travellers who like hands-on cultural experiences.
- Families
- Children who like to help in the kitchen enjoy it, and the food is mild.
- Couples
- A relaxed shared activity that ends in a good meal.
- Pair with
- Pair it with a city tour of the Rova and the Upper Town.
- Time needed
- Allow half a day.
Good questions
What dishes might I cook?+
Common choices include romazava, a zebu and greens stew, ravitoto and fresh relishes, all served with rice.
Is the food spicy?+
Malagasy food is usually mild, with hot chilli relishes served on the side so each person can add their own.
Can vegetarians join?+
Often yes, but arrange it in advance because many dishes use zebu, pork or fish.
Where does it take place?+
In Antananarivo, in a home kitchen, a restaurant or a cooking studio, depending on the host.
What is laoka?+
The accompaniment to rice, such as a meat, fish or bean stew, that makes up the main part of a Malagasy meal.
