The Caldeirão Verde walk, classified as PR9, is the levada hike many Madeira regulars name as their favourite. It starts at the Queimadas forest park above Santana, on the green and often misty north side of the island, and follows the Levada do Caldeirão Verde deep into the Laurisilva, the ancient laurel forest that is protected as a World Heritage landscape. The path is narrow and mostly flat, running beside a stone channel that carries water from the wet north down to farms in the south, and the sound of running water is with you the whole way. Tree heath, giant ferns, mossy trunks and tiny waterfalls spill down the slope on one side while the valley falls away on the other.
The route
From the forest park the first stretch is easy and shaded, with a good path and a handrail where the drop is steepest. After a while the trail leaves the open hillside and plunges into a series of tunnels cut through the rock to carry the levada across spurs of the mountain. Some are short, a few are long enough to be properly dark, and the floor can be wet and uneven, so a head torch or a phone light is essential and you should walk slowly.
Beyond the tunnels the valley narrows into a steep amphitheatre, and the walk ends at the Caldeirão Verde itself, the green cauldron, where a waterfall of roughly a hundred metres drops down a cliff into a pool among the ferns. The out-and-back distance is around twelve to thirteen kilometres, which most walkers cover in five to six hours including a picnic stop at the end.
Guided or independent
The trail is graded as moderate, but the length, the tunnels and the weather make a guide worthwhile for many visitors. Guided options from Funchal take care of the transport to the trailhead, which is a winding drive of about an hour, and often include pickup from your hotel. Classified trails can need registration in a timed slot and a fee for non-residents, so check the current rules or let a guided tour handle it.
The north is wetter than Funchal, and the path can be slippery after rain, so wear shoes with real grip and carry a waterproof layer even if the south coast is sunny.
Making the most of it
Start early, because the day is long and the light in the forest is best in the morning. Pack water, a lunch and a warm layer, since the shade can feel cool. Walkers who want more can continue past the cauldron to the Caldeirão do Inferno on a longer route, but this is an extra half-day for experienced hikers and not a casual add-on.
Combine the walk with Santana and its thatched houses on the same day if you have transport, and plan a slow dinner afterwards, because the legs will feel it.
Seasons and wildlife
The forest changes through the year. Spring brings fresh green growth and wild flowers along the channel, summer is the most reliable for dry paths, and autumn and winter are wetter, when the waterfall is at its strongest but the path can be slick and the light fades early.
Birds such as the Madeiran firecrest and the endemic trocaz pigeon live in the laurel canopy, so pause now and then to listen. Keep to the marked path, leave nothing behind and take your rubbish home, because this is a protected landscape that depends on the care of every walker who passes through it.
What to expect
The experience
A long, shaded levada walk from the Queimadas forest park through tunnels to a tall waterfall and pool, out and back on the same trail.
Best time
Morning, ideally after a dry spell, when the forest is quiet and the waterfall is still impressive.
How long
Allow five to six hours for the walk with a break at the waterfall, plus the drive from Funchal.
Tips
Bring a head torch for the tunnels, grippy shoes, a waterproof layer, water and lunch.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Confident walkers who want forest, tunnels and a waterfall in one day.
- Families
- Suitable for fit older children, but the tunnels and the distance rule out toddlers and tired legs.
- Couples
- A quiet, atmospheric day together, with a picnic by the waterfall.
- Pair with
- Santana and its thatched houses, or a late soak back in Funchal.
- Time needed
- A full day including the drive.
Good questions
How long is the Caldeirão Verde walk?+
The out-and-back route from Queimadas is around twelve to thirteen kilometres and usually takes five to six hours, including a stop at the waterfall.
Do you need a torch for Caldeirão Verde?+
Yes. Several tunnels on the levada are properly dark and the floor can be wet, so bring a head torch or a strong phone light for each person.
Is the Caldeirão Verde walk difficult?+
It is graded as moderate. The path is mostly flat but long, and it can be slippery and exposed in places, so walkers need decent shoes and a reasonable level of fitness.
Where does the Caldeirão Verde trail start?+
It starts at the Queimadas forest park in the hills above Santana on the north side of the island, about an hour from Funchal by road.
Can I swim at Caldeirão Verde?+
The pool at the foot of the waterfall is cold and shaded, and most visitors simply enjoy the view. Check conditions on the day and follow any signs about the water.
