The Aberdare range rises abruptly from the farmland of central Kenya, and its high moorland, bamboo forest and cascading waterfalls feel like a different country from the plains most visitors picture when they think of safari. The national park protects the upper slopes of the range, and its mix of cool mist, giant heather and dense montane forest shelters elephants, buffalo, black rhino, leopard, bushbuck and the shy giant forest hog, along with more than 250 species of birds. The area is also tied to a famous moment in history: it was at Treetops, a lodge built in the branches of a fig tree overlooking a waterhole, that Princess Elizabeth became Queen in 1952 while on a stay in Kenya. A day excursion from Nairobi is a long but rewarding way to sample the park. You drive north through tea and coffee country, pass the town of Nyeri, and enter the park to look for wildlife and waterfalls such as Karuru and Gura, two of the highest in the country. Many day trips include lunch at one of the park lodges, where the waterhole in front of the dining area becomes a front-row seat for passing elephants and buffalo. The mountain air is cool and often damp, so the atmosphere is very different from the dry plains of the south.
How it works
The day excursion leaves Nairobi early, usually between 5.30am and 6.30am, and drives for around three hours to the park gate. Inside, a guide takes you by 4x4 on forest tracks, with stops at viewpoints, waterfalls and the lodge waterhole. Lunch is commonly included at a lodge, and the return to Nairobi is late afternoon or early evening. Park fees may or may not be included, so check this when you book, and bring your passport or ID for the gate.
Timing and conditions
Weather in the Aberdares changes fast. Mornings can be clear and afternoons misty, and the upper tracks can become muddy or even closed in heavy rain, so dry months are more reliable for a day trip. Wildlife is seen best from the lodge waterholes at dawn and dusk, which is one reason many travellers prefer to stay overnight. A day excursion gives you the scenery, the history and a good chance of elephants, but the nocturnal animals that visit the salt licks after dark are for overnight guests.
Making the most of it
Wear layers and a waterproof jacket, bring binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens, and keep expectations flexible, since forest wildlife is harder to spot than animals on open plains. If you are choosing between park days from Nairobi, this one suits travellers who enjoy mountains, forest and history, while Amboseli and Lake Nakuru are better for open-country wildlife. Take motion-sickness tablets if you are prone to car sickness, since the final stretch of road winds uphill.
Planning notes
If you can spare the time, the best way to see the Aberdares is on an overnight stay at a waterhole lodge, with an evening and early morning of sightings from the viewing deck. If you only have a day, ask the operator which lodge hosts lunch and whether a stop at one of the waterfalls is included. Bring a fleece, since the temperature at altitude can drop sharply when cloud rolls in, and carry a small daypack with water, snacks and any medication for the long drive.
What to expect
The experience
A full-day guided excursion by 4x4 from Nairobi into the Aberdare highlands, usually with lunch at a park lodge.
Best time
Dry months for clearer tracks and views; early departure is essential.
How long
About twelve hours including the drive each way.
Tips
Bring layers and a waterproof jacket, binoculars and your ID, and check whether park fees and lunch are included.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who enjoy mountain scenery, forest and waterfalls and want a different safari day from the plains.
- Families
- Good for older children who can handle a long drive, with elephants at the waterhole as the reward.
- Couples
- Cool mountain air, misty views and a waterhole lunch make for a memorable day out.
- Pair with
- Ol Pejeta Conservancy or Mount Kenya if you are heading north.
- Time needed
- One long day.
Good questions
How far are the Aberdares from Nairobi?+
The park is roughly three hours north of Nairobi by road, depending on traffic, so a day excursion starts early and returns in the evening.
Why is Treetops famous?+
Treetops is the lodge built in a fig tree overlooking a waterhole where Princess Elizabeth stayed in 1952 and became Queen during her visit.
What animals live in the Aberdares?+
Elephants, buffalo, black rhino, leopard, bushbuck, giant forest hog and many birds live in the park, though forest animals are harder to spot than plains game.
Is it better to stay overnight?+
Staying overnight lets you watch the waterholes after dark, when more animals visit, but a day trip is a good way to see the scenery and waterfalls.
What should I pack?+
Warm layers, a waterproof jacket, sturdy shoes, binoculars and your passport or ID for the park gate.
