Halki and the Citron Distillery

Halki, in the fertile Tragea valley, was the medieval heart of Naxos, and the village still carries the elegance of a place that once mattered. Its main street is lined with neoclassical mansions, Byzantine churches and Venetian towers, among them the Grazia Tower, and the olive groves that surround it are some of the oldest on the island. The village is also the home of kitron, a liqueur made from the leaves of the citron tree, a large, thick-skinned citrus that was brought to Naxos long ago and thrives here. The drink comes in clear, green and yellow versions with differing strength and sweetness, and it is served cold as an after-dinner digestif. A distillery visit teaches you why the island is proud of it: the guide explains how the leaves are gathered, the way the spirit is made and how the fruit is turned into preserves and sweets.

The product here is a one-hour guided distillery tour with a tasting of citron products. It is short enough to fit into a longer village day, and several visitors combine it with the Temple of Demeter, Filoti and Apeiranthos. Tastings generally include a few versions of the liqueur and some sweets or preserves made from the fruit. Confirm in advance what you will taste and whether there is a small supplement for extras.

Plan the rest of the visit around the village. Walk the main street, step inside the Byzantine church of Panagia Protothronos if it is open, admire the Venetian towers and stop for coffee under the plane trees. Halki has a small number of tavernas, galleries and craft shops, and a handful of artisans who sell ceramics and woven goods. The village is quiet in the late afternoon, and the light on the old stone buildings is lovely then.

Taste carefully, since the liqueur is stronger than it seems when served cold, and if you are driving, ask for a sip rather than a full glass. Bottles make good gifts, but check airline liquid rules if you are travelling by air with cabin luggage only. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for the surrounding countryside, though the distillery runs through the year.

The tour is a useful rainy-day option, because the experience takes place mostly indoors, and it is a good first step toward trying more of the island's food on a farm visit or in a cooking class.

While you are in Halki, allow time for the other sights. The Byzantine church of Panagia Protothronos is among the oldest on the island and holds fine frescoes, though opening times vary. The Grazia Tower, a Venetian fortified house, and the neoclassical mansions along the main street show how wealthy the village once was.

A few galleries and workshops sell pottery, jewellery and paintings by local artists. If you enjoy photography, the shaded square and the old stone facades reward a slow walk. Ask at the distillery about the citron groves, since the tree is delicate and its cultivation is a story in itself.

If you are curious about the tree itself, ask the guide to show you a citron fruit, which is large, bumpy and thick-skinned and nothing like a lemon. The leaves, not the fruit, flavour the liqueur, which is why the groves are tended carefully. The preserves and sweets made from the rind are worth trying, and make good small gifts. Allow a relaxed pace so that the tasting is a conversation and not a rush through the shop.