Mikri Vigla and the Wind Beaches

Further south than Plaka, the character of the coast changes. At Mikri Vigla the beach opens into a broad bay with steady winds, and the national tourism organisation singles it out as a well-known spot for kitesurfing and windsurfing. On a summer afternoon the sky fills with colourful kites, and the water is dotted with sailboards. The beach itself is long and sandy with rocky outcrops that divide it into sections, tavernas at the back, and a laid-back mood quite different from the family beaches further north. Nearby is Alyko, noted for sand dunes, cedars and quiet surroundings, and the small beaches around Kastraki and Pyrgaki, which offer more sheltered swimming.

The wind is the reason to come and also the reason to be careful. In July and August the meltemi blows consistently, which suits sport and makes swimming more bracing than at the sheltered beaches near town. Beginners can take lessons from local schools, which provide equipment and instruction, while experienced riders can rent gear. Check conditions before heading out and respect posted rules, since the zones for swimmers and sport are separated.

If you are not a sailor, there are still reasons to visit. The sunsets are wide and colourful, the beach bars and tavernas offer relaxed dinners, and walking along the shore toward the rocks gives wide views of the coast and the hills inland. In calmer months, such as late spring and September, the water is clearer and warmer, and the beach is quieter. Bring sun protection and a windbreaker, because sand blows in the afternoon, and secure towels and bags.

Getting here is easiest by car or taxi, although some local buses run in season. Parking near the beach is informal, so arrive early at weekends. Facilities range from basic to well-equipped, and quieter parts of the shore have none, so bring water. The coast also has small hotels and apartments, which suit visitors who prefer activity and space to nightlife.

Combine a morning lesson with an afternoon at Alyko or a walk to the dunes, and finish with seafood by the water. Families with young children may prefer the calmer waters of Agios Georgios or Agios Prokopios.

Check the forecast before you go. Wind direction and strength vary day to day, and even experienced riders look at the apps before choosing a beach. If conditions are strong, spectators can enjoy a front-row view of the kites from the shore, and a cold drink at a beach bar makes it a good afternoon. For swimmers, mornings often bring calmer water. The coast around Mikri Vigla also has small rocky coves and a few quiet spots for snorkelling when the sea is flat, so bring a mask if you have one.

If you enjoy a drive, combine the beach with a loop through the south-west countryside. Small chapels, farmland and low hills lie behind the coast, and the landscape is quieter than the busy resorts to the north. At the end of the day, sit at a taverna by the sea and watch the sun set while the last kites come in. The mood is easy, sporty and sociable, and it is a good counterpoint to the cultural sights of Chora and the villages.