Fufu Nikko

Fufu Nikko is an upscale retreat in the Nikko area, positioned for travellers who want a restful, indulgent stay rather than a standard tourist hotel. The idea behind this kind of property is privacy and calm: low-key design, generous rooms, attentive service and an emphasis on hot-spring bathing and good food. It sits at the top of the price range in Nikko, with nightly rates that place it alongside the finest ryokan-style hotels in the region, and it is aimed at couples, honeymooners and anyone marking a milestone. A night here after a day among the shrines and cedar forests makes a satisfying contrast to the busy sightseeing sites, and it suits a trip planned around the pleasures of Japan rather than a checklist.

Nikko is a short trip from Tokyo, but most visitors treat it as a day excursion and miss the best part, which is the evening. The shrines and temples close early, the crowds disappear and the town becomes quiet. Staying overnight in a high-end hotel lets you see the landscape in the soft light of late afternoon, return for a long soak and a multi-course dinner, and wake up to a slow morning. Fufu Nikko is aimed squarely at that experience, and it is one of the most expensive places to stay in the area.

Expect a refined interpretation of Japanese hospitality, with elegant rooms, soft lighting, natural materials and a layout that favours privacy. Hot-spring bathing is central to hotels of this kind, and it is worth asking when you book whether your room has its own bath, what the public baths are like and whether any tattoo rules apply. Dinner is usually a seasonal set menu, and a stay with dinner and breakfast included is normally the best way to experience the hotel. Dietary needs should be confirmed in advance, particularly for vegetarian or allergy-related requests.

The area has plenty to fill a day. The Toshogu shrine complex, the Rinnoji temple, the Futarasan shrine and the red Shinkyo bridge are the best-known sights, and the cedar-lined avenues and quiet walking paths between them are pleasant at any season. Autumn colours, usually from mid-October, are the highlight, while winter brings snow and fewer visitors. Check the map when you book to see how far the hotel is from the station and the shrines, and ask whether transfers are offered, since most guests arrive by train from Tokyo with luggage.

This hotel suits couples, honeymooners and travellers who want a once-in-a-while splurge, and it is less suitable for families with small children who would prefer a more casual place. Prices rise in autumn and on holiday weekends, so book far ahead for those dates. Check what is included in the rate, including meals, any transfer and late check-out, and read the cancellation terms before you confirm.