Nikko Tokanso

Nikko Tokanso is a traditional Japanese inn in the Sannai district, the historic heart of Nikko, where the three great shrine and temple complexes stand within a short walk of each other. That position is the main reason to choose it. Most hotels in town sit near the stations, a bus ride or a long walk from the shrines, but Tokanso puts you a few minutes from Toshogu Shrine and close to the Treasure Museum, Shinkyo Bridge and Futarasan Shrine, so early mornings and quiet evenings in the sacred precinct are easy to enjoy. The inn is a ryokan, which means tatami rooms, futon bedding laid out for the night, and shared hot-spring baths. It suits travellers who want an atmosphere of old Nikko rather than a modern chain hotel, and who are happy to trade some conveniences for character. Rooms are suited to groups, with Japanese-style rooms of different sizes and a Japanese-Western room that sleeps more people, which makes it practical for families and small groups travelling together.

The setting. Sannai is the district where pilgrims, monks and shogunate officials once gathered, and its cedar avenues and stone lanterns still define the atmosphere. Staying here means you can walk to Toshogu at opening time, before the tour buses arrive, and return for a break in the afternoon. The nearby Treasure Museum, Shinkyo Bridge and Futarasan Shrine are all a short stroll away.

Nikko National Park begins almost at the door, which makes it simple to take a short walk into the forest. The two main railway stations are further away, so plan for a bus or taxi on arrival, and allow time if you are carrying luggage.

Rooms and baths. Rooms are Japanese-style with tatami floors and futons, and the property also offers a Japanese-Western option with twin beds and futons. Some rooms have simple facilities such as a toilet and washbasin but not a bath, because guests are expected to use the shared hot-spring baths, so read the room details when you book.

This is part of the traditional ryokan experience: a soak in the evening after a day of walking, followed by a quiet night. As in any Japanese bath, wash first, keep towels out of the water, and check the policy on tattoos before you go if that applies to you.

Meals and amenities. A Japanese breakfast is available, and many guests choose a half-board arrangement that includes dinner and breakfast, so check the rate plan for what is included. The inn has a garden, a gift shop, massage services, lobby tea and coffee, and a front desk that is staffed around the clock.

Wi-Fi is available in rooms. There is no car parking, so travellers arriving by car should arrange parking elsewhere in town, and it is simpler to come by train and bus. Check-in is in the afternoon and check-out is in the morning, so plan your day accordingly.

Who it suits. It is an excellent base for history lovers, photographers and anyone who wants to wake up in the shrine district. Couples enjoy the atmosphere, and families or small groups can use the larger rooms. If you want modern comfort, a western-style bed and private bathroom, Nikko Station Hotel Classic and Nikko Park Lodge Tobu Station are more conventional choices near the stations, and if you want a polished ryokan with a larger spa, Hoshino Resorts KAI Nikko and KAI Kinugawa sit further out.

Winter evenings in Sannai are particularly atmospheric, with snow on the cedars and few visitors, and the inn is a comfortable place to retreat to after sunset.