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First-Timer's Guide to Palawan

Palawan (El Nido & Puerto Princesa) guide

First-Timer's Guide to Palawan

A practical first trip plan for Palawan: how to split your days between El Nido and Puerto Princesa, which island-hopping tour to choose, what to book ahead and when to go.

Palawan is a long, narrow island, and the classic first trip uses two bases that sit about five to six hours apart by road: El Nido in the north and Puerto Princesa in the centre. El Nido is the place for the island-hopping boat days and the beaches. Puerto Princesa is the place for the Underground River, a UNESCO World Heritage national park, plus Honda Bay and an evening firefly trip. Coron, a third base, sits across the water from El Nido and is a side trip for those with extra time. This guide covers how long to stay, what to book, how to get around and when to go.

How many days

Plan at least five full days, and seven if you can. A sensible split is four nights in El Nido, two in Puerto Princesa or Sabang and, if you add Coron, two more nights there. El Nido deserves the most time because the weather decides whether boats run, and a spare day is valuable. If you only have a long weekend, choose one base rather than trying to cover both.

Choosing an island-hopping tour

El Nido's boat trips follow four standard routes, Tours A, B, C and D, run by many operators at similar prices. Tour A is the usual first choice because it covers the Big and Small Lagoons, though you can enter only one of the two on a given day. Tour B leads with Snake Island and caves, Tour C is the hidden beaches and snorkelling route, and Tour D is a gentler route around Cadlao Island with a kayaking stop. With four days in El Nido, do A and C, then add B or D. Each tour is a full day, so do not stack two on the same day. Read the inclusions, since environmental fees, kayaks and snorkel gear are often extra.

Beaches and viewpoints

Nacpan Beach, about 17 kilometres north of El Nido town, is a four-kilometre stretch of golden sand and the best sunset spot, reached by tricycle, motorbike or van in roughly 30 to 45 minutes. It makes a good half day between boat days. The Taraw Cliff canopy walk is a short harnessed climb to a view deck above the town, and it suits a spare morning or a day when boats are cancelled. Stick to the canopy walk rather than the unroped summit scramble.

Puerto Princesa and the Underground River

The Underground River is a full-day trip from the city, a drive of around two hours to Sabang followed by a short boat ride and a 45-minute paddle-boat ride about 1.5 kilometres into the cave. A permit is required, which a day tour arranges, and the park can close in rough weather. Honda Bay island hopping is an easy beach day, and firefly watching on a mangrove river is a quiet evening activity that fits the night before or after the cave.

Getting around

Fly into Puerto Princesa, which has the larger range of flights, or into El Nido's Lio Airport on a domestic flight from Manila. Between the two bases, a shared or private van takes around five to six hours. Fast ferries link El Nido and Coron in roughly 3.5 to 5 hours, and Coron can also be reached by air. In towns, tricycles are the standard short-hop transport, and motorbike rental is common in El Nido, though it carries risk on wet roads.

When to go

December to April is the dry season, with the calmest seas and the highest prices, so book boats two to three weeks ahead. November and May are shoulder months with hot, mostly sunny weather and fewer crowds. June to October is the rainy season, when rough seas often cancel boat tours and you may miss the lagoons. Always keep a spare day for weather.

What to book ahead

Book your first and last nights, and the Underground River permit through a tour, well before peak season. Island-hopping tours can usually be booked a few days ahead outside December to April. Carry cash for fees, kayaks and tricycles, since cards are rarely accepted on boats.

Mentioned in this guide

El Nido Island Hopping Tour A (Big and Small Lagoon)Do

El Nido Island Hopping Tour A (Big and Small Lagoon)

The most popular of El Nido's four standard boat routes, built around the Big and Small Lagoons, with swimming, snorkelling and a beach lunch. If you only do one island-hopping day, this is the usual choice.

Do

Nacpan Beach

A four-kilometre arc of golden sand on the west coast, about 17 kilometres north of El Nido town. Famous for sunsets, calm swimming and a long barefoot walk, and a world away from the boat-tour crowds.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (UNESCO Day Trip)Do

Puerto Princesa Underground River (UNESCO Day Trip)

A paddle-boat ride into a cave river inside a UNESCO World Heritage national park, reached on a full-day trip from Puerto Princesa. Palawan's headline natural sight after El Nido's lagoons.

Honda Bay Island HoppingDo

Honda Bay Island Hopping

A day of island stops in the bay just north of Puerto Princesa, with Cowrie Island, Lu-Li Island and a starfish sandbar. An easy beach and snorkelling day from the city.

Stay

Lime Resort El Nido

A mid-range resort in Corong Corong with free daily buffet breakfast, a pool, a restaurant and bar, and a short ride into El Nido town. A comfortable, practical base for island-hopping days.

Stay

Four Points by Sheraton Palawan Puerto Princesa

A beachfront resort hotel in Sabang, minutes from the Underground River national park, with a big pool, a spa and 24-hour gym. The best base for the cave if you want to skip the long day drive.

Stay

Two Seasons Coron Bayside Hotel

A four-class bayfront hotel in Coron town with 48 rooms and suites, a bayside infinity pool and a skydeck lounge. A polished base for Coron island hopping and Kayangan Lake.