Two Bunch Palms

Two Bunch Palms is the classic hot-springs retreat of the Coachella Valley and the place to stay if soaking is the point of your trip. It lies in Desert Hot Springs, about twenty minutes north of Palm Springs, on land the Cahuilla people held sacred for its healing waters, and its springs rise from an aquifer the resort describes as some 600 years old, emerging at over 100 degrees and replenishing every 24 hours. The heart of the property is the grotto, a rock-lined pool of steaming mineral water among palms that has drawn guests for generations, along with additional pools around it. History hangs over the place pleasantly: the area was named Two Bunches of Palms for its tree clusters, legend has long claimed that Al Capone used it as a Prohibition-era hideout (the resort itself says only that the story added to its reputation for discretion), and in the 1950s Hollywood figures escaped here from Los Angeles for privacy. Today it is an adults-only wellness resort. Rooms are grouped into three areas: Spring rooms in the Grotto Area, closest to the mineral springs, pools and restaurant; Grove rooms in the Olive Grove Area near the pond; and Desert rooms in a secluded corner near the tennis court, the hammock grove and the yoga dome. There are also suites, including the Capone-themed studios. Spa treatments are offered alongside the waters, and the restaurant serves guests on site. Day guests can book a Day Retreat or Mineral Soak Day Pass when available, and seasonal offers include breakfast-inclusive rates and discounts for midweek and longer stays.

The magic of Two Bunch is unhurried time in the water. Guests drift between the grotto, the pools and shaded loungers, soak, nap, swim and soak again, with the quiet broken only by birdsong and the occasional splash. The mineral water feels silky, and the setting among old palms gives it a timeless, slightly bohemian atmosphere that newer spa resorts struggle to match. Evenings are calm, and the night sky over Desert Hot Springs is darker than in Palm Springs.

Choose your room by priority. Spring rooms put you steps from the grotto and the restaurant, ideal for soak-focused stays; Grove rooms are quieter and close to the olive grove and pond; Desert rooms are the most secluded, near the yoga dome and hammocks. Rooms are generally compact, so book a suite if you want more space. Book spa treatments in advance, and check current day-pass availability if you are visiting from elsewhere, since numbers are limited. Desert Hot Springs is windier and more rural than Palm Springs, so plan a car for outings.

Who should stay: couples, wellness travelers, friends on a restorative getaway and anyone who wants mineral water to be the main event. Who should not: families with children, since it is adults-only, and travelers who want nightlife or a walkable town base. Combine a stay with a tour of Cabot's Pueblo Museum nearby. For hot-spring soaking in downtown Palm Springs without an overnight, book the Spa at Séc-he instead.