Portobelo and Mamey Island

Portobelo is one of the most atmospheric corners of Panama, and most visitors to the capital never see it. The town sits on a deep, sheltered bay on the Caribbean coast, where Christopher Columbus is said to have anchored in 1502 and where, for two centuries, Spanish treasure fleets gathered to load the gold and silver brought across the isthmus. The bay's stone forts, built to defend that wealth against pirates and privateers, still stand among the palms and fishing boats, and together with Fort San Lorenzo they form a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can walk the ramparts and gun platforms, look out across the bay from the same positions the garrison once used and peer into the old stone customs house, a long building that once stored bullion. The town church holds the Black Christ, a dark wooden statue that draws pilgrims in huge numbers every October and is a living part of local faith. A day trip also usually includes time at Mamey Island, a small island a short boat ride away with a beach and clear water, which makes the day a pleasing mix of history and swimming. The Afro-Caribbean heritage of the coast is strong here, in the food, the music and the colourful buses that rattle along the road. Details differ by operator, so read the itinerary for exactly which stops are included.

The journey is part of the day. The road to the Caribbean side crosses the isthmus, climbing through forested hills and passing the edges of the canal watershed before dropping to the coast. Expect a drive of around two hours each way from the city, depending on traffic and stops, so this is a long day.

The reward is a calmer, greener and more relaxed Panama, with fishing villages, coastal views and a different pace of life. On the way back, many trips stop for lunch at a simple seaside restaurant, where coconut rice, fried fish and plantains are typical.

What to look for at the forts: the principal fortifications are scattered around the bay rather than concentrated in one place, so a guide is helpful for finding them and explaining who attacked whom. The English privateer Francis Drake died of illness in these waters in 1596, and the town was sacked by Henry Morgan in 1668, events that explain why the Spanish later built stronger walls.

The stone is rough, the grass is cut short, and the setting is more atmospheric than polished, which many visitors prefer. Wear sturdy shoes, because ramparts and steps can be uneven.

Bring swimwear, a towel, sun protection, insect repellent and a little cash for the beach and small purchases. Because the day is long, it suits older children and adults better than very young kids. It pairs naturally with the Agua Clara locks and Fort San Lorenzo trip for anyone who wants to explore the Caribbean side in more than one visit.