If Petra is Nabataean, Jerash is Roman, and it is just as impressive in a quite different way. Ancient Gerasa was a prosperous city of the Decapolis, a league of Greco-Roman cities in the region, and what survives today is one of the most complete Roman provincial towns anywhere, thanks to its burial under sand for centuries. You enter through Hadrian’s Arch, built to honour the emperor’s visit in the year 129, then walk past the old hippodrome to the Oval Plaza, an elegant space ringed by columns. From there the Cardo, the main colonnaded street, runs for several hundred metres, still paved with the original stone and marked by the deep grooves of chariot wheels. Along the way are temples, a nymphaeum, markets and churches, and the South Theatre, where acoustics are so good that a whisper at the centre carries to the top rows, and where musicians in kilts sometimes play bagpipes for visitors. Higher up, the Temple of Artemis rises on a terraced hill with a great flight of steps, and the North Theatre and a cluster of Byzantine churches show how the city changed over time. Jerash is large, so allow time to wander and linger rather than rush.
How it works
Jerash lies about an hour north of Amman, and most visitors come on a day trip by private driver, taxi, shared transport or guided tour, often combined with the hilltop castle at Ajloun. Entry is paid, and the Jordan Pass includes it, so check your pass if you have one.
The site opens in the morning and closes in the late afternoon or around sunset depending on the season, so it is worth checking hours before you go. A guide is worth hiring for the first hour, because many of the buildings are easier to understand when someone explains how the city worked.
What to expect
A large open-air site with little shade, uneven stone paving and some steps, so wear comfortable shoes with good grip. Summer can be very hot, and winter can be wet and cool, so plan accordingly and bring water, a hat and sun protection. Allow two to three hours as a minimum and more if you want to see the whole site.
There are performances at the hippodrome at certain times that bring Roman chariot racing and legionary drills to life, so ask when you arrive about the current schedule. A modern town of the same name surrounds the ruins, with cafes and restaurants where you can have lunch.
Making the most of it
Aim to arrive early, when the light is soft and the crowds are thin, and walk the Cardo from south to north so the full length of the street unfolds in front of you. Climb to the Temple of Artemis and the North Theatre for views across the ruins and the modern town. If you have time, combine Jerash with Ajloun Castle, a twelfth-century fortress on a nearby hilltop with wide views across the valley, and finish with a meal in the town.
Jerash suits history lovers, photographers and families alike, since children can run along the Cardo and explore the theatres. If you are heading south to Petra afterwards, it pairs naturally with the first or last day of your trip, since both start in Amman. A good rule of thumb is to give Jerash a half day if you are mainly interested in the highlights and a full day if you want to explore at leisure and visit Ajloun too.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided or guided walk through a large Roman city, from Hadrian’s Arch along the Cardo to the theatres and temples.
Best time
Early morning, when the light is soft and it is cooler.
How long
Two to three hours at a minimum; a half day is better.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and sun protection, and consider a guide for the first hour.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Roman history and some of the finest classical ruins in the Middle East.
- Families
- Space to roam, theatres to explore and a whispering gallery that children enjoy.
- Couples
- Early light along the colonnaded street.
- Pair with
- Ajloun Castle, and an Amman day before heading south to Petra.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
How far is Jerash from Amman?+
About an hour by road to the north.
Is Jerash included in the Jordan Pass?+
Yes, entry to Jerash is included in the Jordan Pass.
How long do I need?+
Two to three hours covers the main sights; a half day lets you see everything at a relaxed pace.
What are the highlights?+
Hadrian’s Arch, the Oval Plaza, the colonnaded Cardo, the South Theatre and the Temple of Artemis.
Can I combine it with another site?+
Yes. Many tours add Ajloun Castle or an Amman city tour to the same day.
