Mount Hood and the Mt. Hood Scenic Byway

Mount Hood is the snow-capped volcano that floats above Portland's skyline on clear days, and driving up to it is one of the great easy escapes from the city. At 11,249 feet it is Oregon's highest peak, and the route there, US Highway 26, forms the western leg of the Mt. Hood Scenic Byway. The drive takes around an hour and a half from downtown. It starts in the farm and nursery country around Sandy, where the Jonsrud Viewpoint frames the mountain above the Sandy River valley, then climbs through the Villages of Mount Hood — Welches, Zigzag and Rhododendron, with riverside cabins, cafes and trailheads — and the Wildwood Recreation Site, where a paved loop leads to an underwater viewing window for young salmon and steelhead. Higher up, Government Camp is the mountain's year-round hub, with lodges, outfitters, the Mt. Hood Museum and Cultural Center on skiing and Forest Service history, and Mt. Hood Adventure Park at Skibowl, whose summer attractions include a dual alpine slide. A six-mile road then winds up to Timberline Lodge, the National Historic Landmark built by the Works Progress Administration in the 1930s at about 6,000 feet on the mountain's south slope, where you can walk in to admire the hand-forged ironwork and timber craftsmanship and have a drink by the fire for nothing more than the price of a coffee. Nearby Trillium Lake is famous for its mirror-like reflections of the peak. The drive is free; activities, lifts and Sno-Park parking cost extra, and winter visits demand care: carry chains or traction tires and, from November through April, a Sno-Park permit for designated winter parking areas.

Choosing your season: in summer, Mount Hood is about wildflower meadows, lake swims and hikes — the trails around Timberline lead toward alpine meadows, and Trillium Lake is ideal for a picnic and paddle — and Timberline even offers summer skiing on the upper slopes. Autumn brings fall color to the lower forests and quieter roads. Winter turns the mountain into Portland's ski playground, with Timberline, Mt. Hood Meadows and Skibowl all within reach, along with snowshoe and cross-country trails from the Sno-Parks. Spring can mean deep snow up high and blossoms down low.

How to do it: leave early, particularly on winter weekends when ski traffic backs up on Highway 26. Stop in Sandy or Welches for breakfast, take the short walks at the Wildwood Recreation Site or Jonsrud Viewpoint on the way up, explore Government Camp, then climb to Timberline Lodge for lunch or a warm drink and the view. In clear weather, the views south toward Mount Jefferson are superb. Return the same way, or in summer complete the loop by continuing around the east side of the mountain on Highway 35 toward Hood River and back through the Columbia River Gorge.

Safety and practicalities: mountain weather changes fast, so bring warm layers year-round. In winter, check Oregon's TripCheck for road conditions and chain requirements, carry traction devices, and buy a Sno-Park permit before you go if you plan to park in a designated winter area. Fuel up in Sandy, as stations are scarce higher up. Consider staying a night at Timberline Lodge to see the mountain at sunset and sunrise, when it is at its most dramatic.