Les Halles is the covered market of Avignon, on the Place Pie in the old town, where local traders have sold produce for decades. The building is recognisable from the street by its façade, a wall of living plants designed by the botanist Patrick Blanc. Inside there are around forty stalls, among them butchers, bakers, cheesemongers, fishmongers, greengrocers, delicatessens, wine and spirits sellers, a florist and a coffee bar, and a few places that serve food at the counter. The market is more than a place to shop: it is where people in Avignon meet, argue about the weather and buy what they need for the weekend. For a visitor it is the easiest way to see everyday Provence, in its season, without a long drive.
Go in the morning, when the stalls are full and the food is fresh. A good approach is to walk the aisles once without buying, then return to the stalls that caught your eye. Look for Provençal olives and tapenade, goat cheeses from the hills, cured sausages, fresh bread and pastries, anchovies, honey and dried herbs.
In November the seasonal produce includes mushrooms, chestnuts, pumpkins, citrus, olives from the new harvest and truffles from nearby, so the market has a particular winter character. A coffee bar and a few counters serve breakfast, oysters and lunch dishes, and standing up with a plate among the shoppers is part of the pleasure.
The market is closed on Mondays and generally runs through the morning, with slightly longer hours at the end of the week, so check the hours before you set out as they can change around holidays. Most traders accept cards, though small purchases are easier with a few coins. Food that travels well, such as hard cheese, dried sausage, olives, nougat, honey and herbs, makes good gifts, and some stalls will vacuum-pack for the journey home.
Les Halles is a five-minute walk from the Place de l'Horloge and ten minutes from the Palais des Papes, so it fits easily before or after the palace. It also fits a plan to eat well on a budget: a picnic from the market, taken to the Rocher des Doms park or the riverbank, costs far less than a restaurant lunch and is often better.
Some visitors pair it with a guided food walk, but the market is simple to explore alone. Covered and paid parking is nearby for drivers, and the market is on the flat, so access is easy. If you stay in a flat with a kitchen, the market is the place to stock it.
For the best experience, talk to the traders. Ask the cheesemonger what is ripe, ask the olive seller for a taste, and let the fishmonger suggest what is freshest. Most are happy to explain how to cook or serve what you buy, and a few words of French go a long way.
If you are staying somewhere with a kitchen, plan a simple supper: bread, cheese, a ripe tomato or two, olives and a bottle of local wine. Take a tote bag and keep your purchases cool if you will be out for hours, because the winter sun can still warm a bag left in a car.
What to expect
The experience
A covered market of about forty food stalls, with a coffee bar and counters serving breakfast and lunch, under a wall of living plants.
Best time
Mid-morning on a weekday or Saturday, when stalls are full and the lunch counters are open.
How long
One to two hours, longer if you eat lunch there.
Tips
Closed on Mondays, mornings only for most traders, so check the hours; bring a bag and some coins.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers and anyone who wants a picnic lunch or souvenirs that taste of Provence.
- Families
- Easy flat access, pastries and fruit for children, and a short walk to the park afterward.
- Couples
- Oysters and a glass of wine at a counter, then a picnic by the river.
- Pair with
- The Palais des Papes, the Place de l'Horloge and the Rocher des Doms park.
- Time needed
- One to two hours.
Good questions
When is Les Halles open?+
It is closed on Mondays and runs through the morning on the other days, with slightly longer hours toward the weekend. Check the hours before you go, especially around holidays.
Is there an entry fee?+
No, entry is free and you pay only for what you buy. Many traders accept cards, though small amounts are easier with coins.
What should I buy in November?+
Seasonal produce such as mushrooms, chestnuts, citrus and new-harvest olive oil, plus cheese, sausage, bread, honey and olives that travel well.
Can I eat lunch at the market?+
Yes. A coffee bar and some counters serve breakfast, oysters and simple lunch dishes, usually standing or at small tables.
How far is it from the Palais des Papes?+
About ten minutes on foot, so it fits easily into a morning in the old town.
