Puñihuil Penguin Tour

Puñihuil is one of the few places in the world where Magellanic and Humboldt penguins nest side by side. The rocky islets just offshore, protected as a natural monument, host breeding colonies from about October to March, and small boats take visitors close enough to watch penguins stand on the rocks, swim in the surf and tend to burrows. The tour from Puerto Varas begins with the ferry across the Chacao Channel, then drives across Chiloé to the Pacific coast, with a stop in Ancud, the northern port town, for lunch and a look at the old fort and waterfront. The boat ride is short, about thirty minutes, and takes place on open water, so it depends on sea conditions. Along with penguins, you may see cormorants, sea otters, sea lions and other birds. The long drive and boat trip make for a long day, usually about twelve hours, but the encounter with the penguins is one of the most memorable wildlife experiences in southern Chile.

The two species can be distinguished with a little help. Magellanic penguins have two black bands on the chest and nest in burrows; Humboldt penguins have a single band and a pink patch on the face and prefer rock crevices. The colony size changes each year, and guides explain the conservation programme that restricts access to protect the nesting sites. Boats keep a respectful distance and passengers are asked to stay seated and quiet.

Season is important. Penguins arrive in the spring to breed, with chicks visible in summer, and leave in the autumn for the open sea. Outside the main season the boat trip may not run or the penguins may be absent, so confirm before you book. Sea conditions can also cancel boats, and the operator should offer an alternative or a refund.

Bring warm, waterproof clothing, because the open boat gets wet and windy, and bring binoculars if you have them. The beach has cafes serving fish and sandwiches, and the roads on Chiloé can be winding, so motion-sensitive travellers may want to prepare. Combine this tour with the Castro and Dalcahue day or choose one or the other, because trying to see everything in a single day is tiring.

Some advice makes the penguin outing more rewarding. Binoculars give better views of burrow-dwelling birds, and a camera with zoom is more useful than a phone. The boats are small and open, with life jackets for everyone, and passengers sit still to avoid disturbing the colony. Seasickness tablets may help if you are sensitive, as the swell can be noticeable even on a calm day. Penguins are most active in the morning and late afternoon when they move between sea and nest, but the tour timing is set by the tide and operators.

Beyond the penguins, the beach has sea stacks and caves, and on a clear day the Pacific horizon is magnificent. If the boats do not run because of surf, local operators may offer a land viewpoint or a rain check, so ask about the policy before you set out. Expect lunch in Ancud or at a simple restaurant near the beach.