Andean Lakes Crossing

The Andean Lakes Crossing is one of the most scenic border crossings in South America and a route travellers have used for more than a century. From Puerto Varas the journey runs by road to Petrohué, then by boat across Lake Todos los Santos to Peulla, where passengers complete Chilean border formalities. A bus climbs through forest to the Argentine border and the village of Puerto Frías, from where a second boat crosses Lake Frías, followed by another short bus ride to Puerto Blest on Lake Nahuel Huapi and a final boat to the Bariloche area. Depending on the programme, the trip takes one long day or two, with an overnight stop at Peulla. Along the way are volcanoes, glaciers, rainforest, waterfalls and some of the greenest lakes you will see. It is not a quick way to get from one country to the other, but it is arguably the most enjoyable, and the experience is the point.

Operators package the crossing as a single ticket that includes buses and boats, though some include meals and some do not. The programme can run in either direction, so many travellers use it to arrive in Puerto Varas from Bariloche. You must carry your passport and complete formalities at both borders, and baggage should be limited because you carry it between vessels.

The route is subject to weather, especially wind on the lakes, and the operator may change times or switch to land transport when conditions demand. Winter schedules are more limited, and snow can affect the high sections. Good seasons are late spring to early autumn.

Think about the practicalities before you commit: how much you want to spend, whether you prefer a single long day or a night in Peulla, and what you need to carry. It suits travellers who enjoy the journey as much as the destination. If you only want the Chilean half, the Todos los Santos cruise is available as a day trip from Puerto Varas.

Prepare for the logistics by confirming the exact programme with the operator. Ask which meals are included, where the overnight stop is if there is one, how baggage is handled and what documents are needed. Argentina and Chile both check passports, and some nationalities need prior visas or reciprocity fees, so review the rules well before you travel. Bring some pesos for each country, since card payment at remote stops can be unreliable.

Wear layers, because the lakes are cool even in summer, and waterproofs for the open decks. Cameras with extra batteries are useful, as the route offers photo stops for hours. The journey is gentle but long, with queues for formalities, so patience helps. Anyone with mobility issues should ask about boarding and steps. When the weather is poor, the vessels may sail with limited visibility, yet the atmosphere of cloud on the lake has its own appeal.

Prices rise in summer, so compare departures on weekdays, and keep receipts for each stage in case you need to change plans along the way.