Ancient Kameiros is the best place on Rhodes to walk through an entire Greek town rather than a single monument. It sits on a terraced hillside above the west coast, roughly thirty-five kilometres from Rhodes Town, and it was one of the three great city-states of the island, alongside Lindos and Ialysos. In 408 BC the three communities joined together to found the new city of Rhodes at the northern tip of the island, and Kameiros gradually settled into the life of a quiet provincial town. That quiet is the reason so much of its plan survived. Archaeologists working here since the nineteenth century have uncovered the foundations of houses arranged along stepped lanes, a public square with the remains of a Doric colonnade, a large Hellenistic cistern that stored water for the town, and the base of a temple of Athena. Nothing stands very high, but because the town is laid out down the slope you can read it at a glance: shrines and civic buildings on the upper terraces, homes through the middle, and the Aegean glittering far below. Rhodes has grander sights, but none that gives such a clear feeling for how ordinary people lived in a Greek city.
Plan on about an hour to an hour and a half. Most visitors walk the main path from the entrance down through the residential quarter, pause at the cistern and the square, and then climb to the upper terrace where the temple stood and the view opens out over the coast and the sea. The ground is uneven, there are many stone steps and almost no shade, so a hat, water and shoes with decent grip make a real difference.
Information boards in English explain what each cluster of walls was, and a guided visit adds the stories the stones cannot tell on their own, such as how the Hellenistic builders collected rainwater and why the town was never fortified like Lindos.
Getting there is the main decision. The site lies off the west coast road, about forty-five minutes to an hour by car from Rhodes Town, and public buses run there on a limited timetable, so many people choose a guided day tour that combines Kameiros with other places in the west and interior of the island.
With a hire car it is easy to put Kameiros together with Kritinia Castle, which is a short drive further south, and finish the day at Monolithos for sunset. There is parking at the entrance and a small cafe nearby, but facilities are basic.
Seasons
The site is a ministry of culture monument, so it follows seasonal hours, with longer days in the main season and shorter hours and a weekly closing day in winter. Check the current times before you set out, and go early in summer, because the hillside is exposed and the middle of the day can be punishing.
Spring is the loveliest time to come, with wildflowers among the foundations and a green hillside. In the cooler months the site is peaceful and you may have whole terraces to yourself, though showers can make the stone steps slippery.
Kameiros pairs well with the Archaeological Museum in the Old Town, where finds from the island's ancient cities are displayed, and with Filerimos hill, which overlooks the site of Ialysos, the third of the old city-states.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through an open-air excavated town on a hillside, past house foundations, a square, a cistern and temple remains, with English information boards along the route. A guided day tour is the easy way to reach it.
Best time
Early morning in the warm months to beat the heat, or spring for wildflowers and soft light. Winter is peaceful but the steps can be slippery after rain.
How long
About an hour to an hour and a half on site, plus the drive from Rhodes Town.
Tips
Bring a hat, water and sturdy shoes, because there is little shade. Check seasonal hours and the weekly closing day before you go, and combine it with Kritinia Castle and Monolithos on the same trip.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants to see how an ancient Greek town was laid out, not just a single temple.
- Families
- Children like the stepped lanes and the big cistern, but there is no shade and plenty of uneven stone, so keep little ones close and bring water.
- Couples
- Come in the softer light of the morning or late afternoon and carry on to Monolithos for a west coast sunset.
- Pair with
- Kritinia Castle, Monolithos Castle and Filerimos hill.
- Time needed
- One to one and a half hours on site, or a half day with the drive.
Good questions
What is Ancient Kameiros?+
An excavated Greek city on the west coast of Rhodes and one of the three original city-states of the island, with Lindos and Ialysos. You can walk through its streets, houses, square, cistern and temple terrace.
How far is Kameiros from Rhodes Town?+
About thirty-five kilometres, which is roughly forty-five minutes to an hour by car. Buses run on a limited timetable, and many visitors join a day tour instead.
How long do I need at Kameiros?+
An hour to an hour and a half is enough to walk the whole site and enjoy the views. Add time if you take a guided tour or want to photograph the terraces.
Is there shade at the site?+
Very little. The hillside is open to the sun, so go early in summer and bring a hat, sunscreen and water.
Is Kameiros open in winter?+
Yes, on seasonal hours that are shorter than in summer, with a weekly closing day. Check the current schedule before you go, because winter times are often earlier in the afternoon.
