Monte Smith is the green hill on the western edge of Rhodes Town, and it is the site of the ancient acropolis of the city. When the three city-states of the island united in 408 BC, tradition says the new capital was laid out on a grid plan, with its sanctuaries, gymnasium, theatre and stadium arranged on and around this hill. Much of the ancient city lies under the modern one, but on the hilltop and its slopes you can still walk among the surviving pieces: a few restored columns of the Temple of Apollo Pythios, the long U-shaped stadium, a small theatre with its rows of seats, and the remains of a gymnasium and a temple of Athena Polias. The Italian archaeologists who excavated the area in the early twentieth century restored several of these buildings, and the stadium in particular gives a good idea of how a Hellenistic athletics ground looked. The hill takes its English name from the British admiral Sir Sidney Smith, who used it as a lookout to watch the French fleet during the Napoleonic wars. From the top you can see the whole sweep of the city, the sea and, on clear days, the mountains of the Turkish coast and the island of Symi.
Most people come for an hour. Park or walk to the top, wander the open-air site at your own pace, climb the steps of the theatre and the stadium and stay for the view. There is no ticket office and no fixed queue, and information boards in Greek and English explain the main structures. The ground is dusty and uneven and shade is limited, so comfortable shoes are a good idea. The hill is a good place for a picnic, and there are cafes and tavernas on the road below.
Sunset is the great moment. In the last hour of daylight the stone turns gold, the columns of the temple stand out against the sky and the light on the sea is superb, which is why locals walk up in the evening. If you plan to stay for the sunset, bring a light jacket, because the hilltop is breezy, and check the way down, since the paths are not lit and the steps are uneven in the dark. Early morning is the quietest time and the best for photographs of the stadium.
Getting there is simple. It is about a thirty-minute walk from the Old Town through the modern city, uphill at the end. Local buses and taxis also reach the top, and a short taxi ride from the walls is the easiest option in hot weather. A bicycle or scooter also works well. For visitors without a car it is one of the easiest ancient sites to reach, and it fits neatly between a morning in the Old Town and an evening meal in the new town.
Seasons
Because it is an open hillside, you can visit at any time of year, and it is a good winter alternative when museums close early. Summer midday is hot and exposed, so come early or late. Winter days are cool and often clear, with excellent visibility, though rain makes the paths muddy.
What to expect
The experience
A free open-air hilltop site with the restored columns of the Temple of Apollo, an ancient stadium and a small theatre, plus wide views over the city and sea.
Best time
The last hour before sunset for golden light, or early morning for quiet and clear photographs.
How long
About an hour, longer if you stay for sunset or picnic.
Tips
Wear comfortable shoes, bring a light jacket for the breeze, and take care on the unlit paths on the way down after dark.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Sunset seekers and anyone who wants a free ancient site with a view.
- Families
- Wide open space for children to run and a stadium to race in, but little shade and some uneven steps.
- Couples
- Go up for the sunset with a picnic, then come down to dinner in the new town.
- Pair with
- The Old Town of Rhodes, Mandraki harbour and the Archaeological Museum.
- Time needed
- About an hour.
Good questions
Is Monte Smith free to visit?+
Yes. It is an open hillside and you can walk around the stadium, theatre and temple remains at no charge at any time of year.
Why is it called Monte Smith?+
It is named after the British admiral Sir Sidney Smith, who used the hill as a lookout to watch the French fleet in the early nineteenth century.
How do I get to Monte Smith from the Old Town?+
It is about a thirty-minute walk through the modern city, uphill at the end. Taxis and local buses also reach the top, and a short taxi ride is easiest in hot weather.
What is the best time to visit Monte Smith?+
The hour before sunset is the favourite, when the stone glows and the views are at their best. Early morning is quieter and good for photographs.
What can I see at the top?+
Restored columns of the Temple of Apollo, the ancient stadium, a small theatre, the remains of a gymnasium and wide views over the city and the sea.
