Jūrmala is a long, narrow resort town stretched along the coast of the Gulf of Riga, around half an hour west of the capital by train. Its name means seaside, and the main draw is a wide, pale-sand beach backed by dunes and pine woods that runs for many kilometres. The town grew in the nineteenth century as a spa destination, when visitors came for sea air and the mud and mineral waters, and it later became a favoured holiday spot in the Soviet era. Its streets still hold hundreds of wooden villas with carved balconies, turrets and verandas, a style of timber architecture that sets it apart from the stone Old Town of Riga. The liveliest part is Jomas iela in Majori, a pedestrian street of cafés, shops and terraces, while quieter stretches near Dzintari and Bulduri suit walking and cycling.
What to do
Walk the beach, stroll Jomas iela, look at the wooden villas on the side streets and have a long lunch of grilled fish or a plate of local smoked fish at a café. Dzintari has a concert hall that hosts summer performances, and there are spa hotels and health centres if you want a treatment. In summer the beach fills with locals and visitors, with volleyball nets, beach bars and swimmers braving the cool water, while in winter the sand is wide, quiet and good for long, cold, bracing walks.
Getting there
Trains from Riga Central Station run frequently and stop at several Jūrmala stations, so you can get off at Majori for the main street or at Dzintari for the concert hall and quieter beach. A fee is normally charged for cars entering the town, particularly in the season, so the train is the simpler choice for most visitors. Day tours from Riga often combine Jūrmala with the Ķemeri bog boardwalk, which is a short drive further.
Tips
The Baltic water is cool even in July, so do not count on warm swimming; bring a towel and a layer, since the sea breeze can be fresh. Sunsets from the beach are a local ritual, with people gathering on the sand in the evening to watch the sun go down over the Gulf. If you have time, look for the older villas in quiet streets away from the centre, where whole blocks retain their original carved wood.
Making the most of it
Plan around the weather, with a beach day in July and August and a walk plus spa visit in other seasons. A half day is enough for a stroll and lunch, but a full day lets you add the beach, the villas and a sunset.
What to expect
The experience
A day at the beach and on the resort’s pedestrian street, with a walk among the wooden villas, by train or on a guided trip.
Best time
July and August for swimming; any season for walks, spas and sunsets.
How long
A half day for a stroll and lunch, a full day for the beach and sunset.
Tips
Take the train to avoid the car fee, bring a layer for the sea breeze and expect cool water.
Quick picks
- Best for
- A summer beach day or a relaxed escape from the city.
- Families
- Wide sand, shallow water and playgrounds make it easy with children.
- Couples
- Sunset on the beach and dinner on a terrace.
- Pair with
- The Ķemeri bog boardwalk and Riga’s Art Nouveau district for a contrast in styles.
- Time needed
- Half a day to a full day.
Good questions
How do I get from Riga to Jūrmala?+
By train from Riga Central Station in about half an hour, or by car, bus or a guided day trip.
Is the water warm enough to swim?+
In July and August many people swim, but the Baltic is cool, so bring a towel and expect a brisk dip.
What is Jomas iela?+
The main pedestrian street in Majori, lined with cafés, shops and wooden buildings.
Is Jūrmala worth visiting in winter?+
Yes, for quiet beach walks, spas and the atmosphere of the wooden villas, though most beach facilities are closed.
Do cars pay to enter?+
A fee is usually charged for cars entering the resort, particularly in season, so check before driving.
