Rovaniemi is a small city, but it eats well, and the food is one of the pleasures of a Lapland trip. Lappish cooking is built on a short list of ingredients that thrive in the north: reindeer, freshwater fish, berries, mushrooms and dairy. It is simple, seasonal and designed to warm you after a day outside. This guide explains what to try, how to fit meals into your days and how to choose between a hotel dinner, a town restaurant and the meals that come with tours.
Reindeer
Reindeer is the signature meat of the region, and it is eaten in several ways. The classic dish is sautéed reindeer, called poronkäristys, thin slices of meat cooked with onion and served with mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam. The meat is lean and tastes slightly gamey, a little like venison. Smoked reindeer, reindeer steak and reindeer in a creamy sauce are also common. If you are visiting a reindeer farm, ask the herder about how the animals are kept, since reindeer herding is a living tradition among the Sami and other northern communities, and some visitors prefer to think about the animals before they order.
Fish and soup
Salmon soup, or lohikeitto, is a Finnish comfort dish made with salmon, potatoes, leeks and cream, and it is easy to find at lunch in Rovaniemi. Whitefish, Arctic char and other freshwater fish appear on menus, often grilled or smoked. If you try ice fishing, some guides cook the catch over a fire, which is the freshest meal of the trip. A bowl of soup with dark rye bread is the best answer to a cold day, and many restaurants offer it as a simple lunch option.
Berries and sweet things
The north is known for its berries. Cloudberries, a golden berry that grows in northern marshes, are tart and distinctive, and they appear in jam, desserts and liqueur. Lingonberries come with savoury dishes, and blueberries and crowberries show up in pies and juices. Bread cheese, or leipäjuusto, is a mild, squeaky cheese often served warm with cloudberry jam, and it makes a good dessert. Try a Finnish pastry such as a cinnamon bun, called korvapuusti, with coffee in the afternoon.
Coffee and drinks
Finns drink more coffee per person than almost anyone, and a coffee break, called kahvitauko, is part of the day. Cafes in Rovaniemi serve strong filter coffee, pastries and sandwiches, and they are a good place to warm up between sights. For something stronger, local craft beers and berry liqueurs are common, and a hot berry juice or glögi appears around Christmas. Tap water is excellent, so carry a bottle and fill it as you go.
How meals fit into your day
Many tours include food, such as a campfire snack on a husky or reindeer safari, a lunch at a farm or a meal after a sauna, so you will not need a restaurant for every meal. Ask when you book what is included, and plan dinner after evening activities, since some end late. In winter, dark afternoons are good for a long, warm lunch. Dinner in the centre is easier to arrange than in the Arctic Circle area, where options are fewer, so if you are staying there, check whether your hotel has a restaurant and book a table early in busy weeks.
Eating on a budget
Lapland is not cheap, but there are easy ways to keep costs sensible. Lunch is the best value meal of the day, since many restaurants serve a set menu with soup, bread and a drink at a lower price than dinner. Supermarkets sell good rye bread, smoked fish, cheese and berries for picnics, and a hotel breakfast buffet can carry you through a long outdoor day. Cafes offer filling sandwiches and pastries, and a bowl of soup by a fire on a tour is often included. Save a restaurant dinner for one special evening rather than every night.
Practical tips
Reserve restaurants ahead in December and February, since the city fills up and seating is limited. Tell the staff about allergies and dietary needs, since many places offer vegetarian options and can adapt dishes, and Lappish menus often include a plant-based choice. Tipping is not expected in Finland, though rounding up is welcome for good service. Prices are higher than in much of Europe, and a lunch special is the best way to eat well on a budget. Finally, try to eat at least one meal that tastes of the place, whether that is salmon soup by a fire, reindeer in a small restaurant or cloudberries after a sauna.
