Most visitors come to Rovaniemi for snow, but the summer months have a quiet charm of their own, with long light, warm days and far fewer crowds. The Arctic Circle city feels relaxed and green, rivers run wide and the forests fill with berries. If you are travelling in June, July, August or September, this guide shows how to enjoy it, what stays open and how the experience differs from the winter season.
The light
Around midsummer, roughly June and July, the sun stays close to or above the horizon through the night, and the sky glows for hours. The effect is magical but can make sleeping difficult, so bring an eye mask or ask your hotel about blackout curtains. By late August the nights begin to darken again, and the first Northern Lights of the season become possible, which opens an interesting overlap between summer and aurora season.
Santa Claus Village in summer
The village is open all year, and crossing the Arctic Circle line is just as easy in July as in December. The post office, shops and Santa's cabin all operate, with smaller crowds, shorter queues and warm weather for walking. Many visitors find summer a relaxed way to see the village, though you will not find snow, sleds or sleigh rides. SantaPark runs a winter season, so check its dates before you plan.
On the water
The Kemijoki and Ounasjoki rivers, and the lakes around the city, are at their best in summer. Canoeing under the midsummer light is a highlight, and guided trips are suitable for beginners. Boat trips, fishing and stand-up paddle boarding are also available. Bring mosquito repellent, since insects can be active near water, especially in July.
In the forest
Summer and autumn are the best seasons for walking. The trails around Ounasvaara hill are easy and free, and guided hikes lead to places such as Auttiköngäs and the Korouoma canyon. From July to September, the forest fills with berries and mushrooms, and a foraging walk with a guide is a rewarding way to taste Lapland. Cloudberries ripen earliest, followed by bilberries and lingonberries.
Animals
Huskies, reindeer and the Ranua Wildlife Park are all open in summer, although the experience differs. Husky farms offer cart rides and puppy cuddles, reindeer farms show the herd at pasture and Ranua is a pleasant day out in warm weather. Some bears, elk and lynx are more active in the quiet of early morning and evening.
Culture and food
Arktikum and Korundi are open year-round and make good wet-weather alternatives. Restaurants spill onto terraces in the evening, and the menus lean on salmon, whitefish, reindeer and berries. Try cloudberries with ice cream or the squeaky bread cheese called leipäjuusto. Summer is also a good time for a lakeside sauna, followed by a swim in the cool water.
Autumn, or ruska
In September the forests turn red, orange and gold, and the air is crisp. It is arguably the prettiest season for walking, with fewer insects and the possibility of the Northern Lights on dark nights. Prices are lower than in the peak winter weeks, and many activities, including husky cart rides and reindeer visits, are available.
Packing and planning
Pack layers even in summer, since evenings can be cool, and include a rain jacket, comfortable walking shoes and insect repellent. Book popular activities in advance for the weeks around midsummer, and check opening hours, which can be shorter in the shoulder seasons. A car is useful, but taxis and tours cover most needs. With time to spare and a flexible plan, summer in Rovaniemi is a pleasant surprise.
A sample summer day
Start with breakfast and a stroll across the Lumberjack's Candle Bridge, spend the late morning at Santa Claus Village and the Arctic Circle line, then have lunch beside the river. In the afternoon, join a guided forest walk or a berry-picking trip, and finish with a lakeside sauna and a swim in the evening light. In the weeks around midsummer, the light means you can start late and finish late without feeling hurried, which is a gift for families. Round the day off with dinner on a terrace, and if the evening is clear, take a short drive to a lake or the top of Ounasvaara hill to watch the sky stay bright long after most cities have gone dark.
