Mesopotam Monastery and Finiq

Many visitors to Saranda stay on the coast and miss the quiet hills behind it. This tour takes you inland to two historic places: the Byzantine monastery church at Mesopotam and the ruins of ancient Phoenice near the village of Finiq. Both sit in rolling country of olive groves, oak woods and small farms, and the route is a good way to see the rural south. It is slower, quieter and more cultural than the usual beach and spring circuit, and it suits travellers who enjoy history in a landscape.

The monastery of St Nicholas at Mesopotam is a Byzantine church on a rise in the village, with a distinctive form and old stonework surrounded by a ruined monastic complex. It is reached by a short walk through the village, and the setting beside the Bistrica river and its ancient bridge makes it an unexpectedly peaceful stop. Guides explain the architecture and the religious history, and local people sometimes open the building for visitors. Dress modestly, as it remains a place of worship.

Phoenice was one of the most important cities of ancient Epirus. It stood on a hill above a fertile plain, and its ruins include walls, a theatre and the foundations of public buildings. The city was a capital of the Chaonian region and is remembered for the peace treaty concluded there in the third century BC. The site is less visited than Butrint, so you may have it nearly to yourself, with wide views over the plain towards the mountains. Paths can be rough and uneven.

The tour linked here covers the sites with transport from Saranda, and some versions add a coffee stop or a visit to a family farm. The drive is part of the pleasure, passing villages with stone houses, Greek-speaking communities and roadside fruit stalls. It is a good choice for a cooler day, when you do not feel like swimming, or for travellers who like to see how people live away from the resort strip.

Wear sturdy shoes, bring water and a hat, and carry some cash for small purchases in the villages. Spring is especially lovely, when the hills are green and wild flowers cover the ruins, while autumn brings softer light and harvest activity. Allow half a day, and consider combining the tour with Gjirokaster or the Blue Eye if you have a full day.

The villages along the route are part of the appeal. Many are home to Greek-speaking families who have farmed the same land for generations, and conversations in cafes can reveal details about local festivals, olive harvests and migration to Greece and Italy. If your guide suggests a stop for coffee or fruit, accept: small purchases support the villages and give you a chance to talk. Photography inside churches may be restricted, so ask permission first.

Allow a little extra time for walking at both sites, because ground at the ruins is uneven and the route to the monastery includes some steps. Photographers enjoy the soft light in the late afternoon, when the stone turns warm and the plain below is lit. A small donation at the church is appreciated, and the villagers who guard the keys often have stories to share. If you hope to buy local honey, olive oil or herbs, carry small cash.