Saranda is the main resort town on the southern coast of Albania, a crescent of apartment blocks and cafes around a deep bay that faces the Greek island of Corfu across a narrow strait. A generation ago it was a quiet border port; today it is the gateway to some of the best-value beaches and heritage in the Mediterranean. It is not a place of grand monuments in itself, and that is its charm. It is a relaxed base with a lively seafront, from which a remarkable list of sights can be reached in a morning: the ancient city of Butrint, the turquoise bays of Ksamil, the Blue Eye spring, a hilltop castle for sunset, and the stone city of Gjirokaster inland.
How long to stay
Three nights is the minimum to do the coast justice, and four or five is better. One day goes to Butrint and Ksamil, one to the Blue Eye and Lekuresi Castle or Gjirokaster, and one to a boat trip along the coast. A week lets you add the Riviera drive north to Himara and Dhermi and a day in the interior at the thermal springs or on the Vjosa River. If you are arriving from Corfu or driving between Greece and Tirana, even a single night is worth it.
The sights nearest town
Start with the seafront promenade, a flat and friendly strip of cafes and ice cream stalls, and walk up to Lekuresi Castle for the sunset view across the bay to Corfu. A short guided walking tour is a good way to understand the town, which has the ruins of an ancient synagogue, an early Christian church and the Forty Saints hill hidden among the modern buildings. The Saranda communism tour adds the recent history of a closed border town.
The sights south of town
Butrint National Park, about 18 kilometres away, is the star: a UNESCO-listed ancient city among pines and lagoon water, with a Greek theatre, Roman baths and a Venetian tower. Just beyond it, Ksamil has the best swimming, with shallow turquoise water and small islands. Most visitors combine the two in one day, going to Butrint in the cooler morning and Ksamil in the afternoon. Kayaking on the Vivari Channel is a good way to see the area from the water.
The sights inland
The Blue Eye is a deep karst spring in the forest, with a blue centre that looks almost artificial. It is usually combined with Lekuresi Castle. Gjirokaster is about an hour away and deserves a half day or more, with its castle, bazaar and Ottoman tower houses. For something quieter, the Mesopotam monastery and the ruins at Finiq reveal the rural south, and the Benja hot springs and Langarica Canyon offer a full day of nature.
On the water
Boat trips are the best way to reach the secluded beaches and sea caves along the shore. Choose between a small-group boat, a speedboat to Krorez Bay, a cave-focused trip to Kakome and Gremina, a comfortable yacht or a private sunset boat to the Ksamil islands. Mornings are calmer, and operators usually run from late spring to early autumn.
Getting around
Saranda itself is walkable. For day trips, join a tour, hire a driver or rent a car. Taxis are inexpensive but agree the fare first. Local minibuses run to Ksamil and Butrint in season, and long-distance minibuses leave for Gjirokaster, Tirana and other towns from set points. Roads on the coast and in the interior are winding but generally good. Ferries and fast boats run between Saranda and Corfu, and you should carry your passport.
Money and practicalities
The currency is the Albanian lek, although euros are often accepted in tourist areas. Cards work in many places but small cafes, taxis and beach clubs prefer cash. Tipping of around ten percent in restaurants is appreciated. Bring a plug adapter, sun protection, water shoes for pebbly beaches and a light layer for evenings and mountain trips. Check your government's travel advice before you go.
A simple plan
Day one: arrive, walk the promenade and watch the sunset from the castle. Day two: Butrint in the morning and Ksamil in the afternoon. Day three: the Blue Eye and Gjirokaster, or a boat day. Day four: the Riviera drive to Himara. Keep one afternoon free for doing nothing, which is half the point of a trip to this coast.
