Shenzhen has no single cuisine of its own, which is exactly what makes it a great place to eat. As a city built by migrants from across China, it serves the food of nearly every province, and as part of Guangdong it also has its own Cantonese and Hakka roots. The result is a food scene where you can have dim sum for breakfast, hotpot for lunch and regional specialties for dinner, all within a few metro stops.
Cantonese classics
Start with dim sum, the small steamed and fried dishes served with tea, in a teahouse or hotel restaurant. Look for shrimp dumplings, pork buns, rice noodle rolls and sticky rice in lotus leaf. Roast goose, barbecued pork and crispy pork belly are other staples, along with congee, wonton noodles and steamed fish with ginger and spring onion. Cantonese cooking values freshness and a light touch, which makes it friendly for first-time visitors.
Hakka and Chaoshan flavours
The Hakka people have lived around Shenzhen for centuries, and their dishes are hearty and savoury, with salt-baked chicken, stuffed tofu and braised pork with preserved vegetables. Chaoshan cooking from eastern Guangdong has become hugely popular in the city through beef hotpot, where cuts of fresh beef are named by the part of the animal and cooked briefly in a clear broth. Ask the staff to suggest cuts and dipping sauces, and enjoy the ritual of the meal.
Seafood
Shenzhen is a coastal city, and seafood restaurants are found in the villages along the bay and on the Dapeng Peninsula. You choose live fish, shrimp, crab or shellfish from tanks and the kitchen cooks them in your preferred style, such as steamed, stir-fried with garlic or baked with salt. Agree on prices by weight before ordering, and share dishes among the table.
Street snacks and night markets
Dongmen, Overseas Chinese Town and many neighbourhood lanes offer skewers, dumplings, noodles, pancakes, bubble tea and desserts. Eat where there is a steady line of customers and food that is cooked in front of you. Try a few small items instead of a large meal so that you can sample more. Carry small change or a payment app that works locally.
Regional cooking from across China
Because so many residents come from other provinces, you can find Sichuan restaurants with numbing peppercorn heat, Hunan places with sharp chilli, Xinjiang grills with lamb skewers and northern dumpling houses. Malls are good for variety, with floors of restaurants where you can choose by picture. For international food, the business districts have many cafes, bakeries and Western restaurants.
Tea and drinks
Tea is served at most Cantonese meals, and the habit of tapping the table to thank the person who pours is a polite gesture. Bubble tea shops are everywhere, and craft coffee has become a strong part of the creative districts. Beer is common with hotpot and barbecue, and rooftop bars in Futian and Nanshan offer cocktails with skyline views. Tap water is not generally drunk, so use bottled or boiled water.
How to order
Many restaurants use ordering by phone code, with pictures and English in some cases. A translation app helps, and pointing at what other tables are eating works well. Share dishes, order a mix of meat, vegetables and rice, and ask for less oil or spice if you prefer. Tell staff clearly about allergies and dietary needs, and show them in Chinese if you can. A guided food tour is the easiest way to learn the basics.
Etiquette and tips
Do not stick chopsticks upright in rice, and use serving spoons or the back end of your chopsticks for shared dishes. Tipping is not expected. Peak meal times, from noon and from six in the evening, can bring queues, and many restaurants give out numbers. If you have a favourite dish, ask the staff how to write it in Chinese so that you can order it again.
Breakfast and sweets
Breakfast in Shenzhen can be a bowl of congee with fried dough, a plate of rice noodle rolls, a steamed bun or a simple bakery pastry. Look for dessert shops that serve mango pomelo sago, red bean soups, tofu pudding and egg tarts. Fresh fruit is excellent, especially lychee, mango and dragon fruit in season. Coffee shops in creative districts offer good espresso, and tea houses serve classic leaf teas in a quiet setting. A sweet stop in the afternoon is a pleasant way to rest between sights.
Eating with children
Most restaurants welcome families, and dishes such as dumplings, noodles, steamed buns, plain rice and fried rice are easy for children. Ask for less spice, and share plates. Malls often have play areas and quick, clean food courts, which are useful for busy days.
