A Georgian supper is not just a meal but a ritual, and this dinner lets you experience it as locals do. The supra is a long, generous feast in which dishes arrive in waves, wine is poured steadily and a tamada, the toastmaster, guides the evening through a sequence of toasts. Each toast has a theme, from peace and the homeland to parents, absent friends and love, and the tamada speaks at length, often with humour, while the table listens and then drinks. This version is arranged for visitors, so a host or guide explains the traditions, teaches the right etiquette and makes sure that nobody feels lost. The food is the classic spread: cheese breads, pkhali made with spinach and walnuts, lobio beans, grilled meats, salads and khinkali, with wine from amber qvevri vintages to fresh whites and bold reds. It is the best single evening for understanding why Georgians say that a guest is a gift from God.
How to visit
The dinner is held in the evening at a restaurant or a private venue in Tbilisi, for a group of fellow travellers. The format includes a set menu with a succession of dishes and unlimited wine for the length of the meal, but check when you book what drinks, extras and any transport are included.
Tell the organiser about dietary needs in advance, because Georgian cuisine is rich in vegetarian dishes and a meat-free supra is easy to arrange. Dress is relaxed, and the evening usually lasts three hours or more, so plan nothing afterwards.
What to expect
The tamada will propose a toast and expect each guest to hold a glass and drink, traditionally in a single go for the main toasts, though visitors are welcome to sip. The etiquette is part of the fun: you do not toast with beer, you do not interrupt the tamada and you pass the bread with your right hand.
Expect storytelling, perhaps a song and a good deal of laughter. Georgians say the first toast is to peace, and the later ones to the family, to friendship and to the dead, with wine in a horn or a cup depending on the host. If you drink little, say so and pace yourself, because the toasts keep coming and the food is the great equaliser.
Making the most of it
Eat steadily, because the dishes keep arriving, and leave room for the main course. Learn the one word you need, gaumarjos, which means cheers or victory, and say it with feeling. Pair the supper with a day in the wine country, so you can compare the stories of the vineyards with the toasts at the table. Book early in your stay if you want to ask the tamada for restaurant tips, and plan transport home, because the evening finishes late and the wine is generous.
Good to know
The supper is a social event, so arrive on time and expect to share a table with other guests. If you have any food allergies, say so when booking and again to the host on the night, because dishes are shared and sauces often contain walnuts. A tamada’s speeches are traditionally in Georgian with English summaries, so be patient and join in the glasses. Many guests find the evening so enjoyable that they stay long after the last dish, so plan a safe way home.
What to expect
The experience
An evening feast with a tamada leading the toasts, a table of traditional dishes and unlimited wine for the length of the meal.
Best time
Evening, early in your stay.
How long
About three hours.
Tips
Mention dietary needs when booking, pace the wine and learn gaumarjos.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-time visitors and food and wine lovers who want a cultural evening.
- Families
- Better for older teenagers; the evening is long and wine-focused.
- Couples
- A lively, romantic and very Georgian evening out.
- Pair with
- The Kakheti wine day trip for the story behind the glass.
- Time needed
- An evening.
Good questions
What is a tamada?+
A tamada is the toastmaster who leads a Georgian feast, proposing a sequence of toasts and telling stories. It is an honour, and a good one is a performer.
Is wine really unlimited?+
The supper is arranged with unlimited wine for the length of the meal, but check when you book what is included and the time limits.
Is the supper suitable for vegetarians?+
Usually yes, because Georgian cuisine has many bean, cheese, walnut and vegetable dishes. Mention it when booking.
What should I wear?+
Smart casual is fine. The evening is relaxed and the setting varies with the venue.
Do I have to drink at every toast?+
No. Visitors are welcome to sip, and nobody will mind if you pace yourself. Say so at the start.
