Khevsureti is one of the wildest and least visited regions of Georgia, a land of deep gorges, high passes and stone villages perched on the edge of the Caucasus. This ambitious day trip from Tbilisi reaches Shatili, a village of tightly packed fortress houses and watchtowers built of dry stone on a steep slope above the Argun river. The settlement, close to the border, was designed as a defensive complex and has stood for centuries, its towers rising from the hillside like a medieval town frozen in time. Nearby, the Anatori necropolis is a cluster of small stone crypts, said to have been used for plague victims in the past, which adds a haunting note to the visit. The journey itself, over a mountain pass and along a road that twists beside rivers and cliffs, is a large part of the adventure and gives a vivid picture of how remote the highlands are.
How to visit
This is one of the longest day trips from Tbilisi, with a drive of several hours in each direction on roads that are partly rough. The tour leaves very early, and you return late in the evening. Because of the distance and road conditions, it runs mainly in summer and early autumn. Check when you book the exact route, what is included and whether a stop for lunch is planned. Bring your passport, since you will be close to a border area, and follow your guide’s instructions near the frontier.
The drive
The route climbs from the lowlands through green valleys and over a high pass, with views of the Caucasus and the Khevsur villages tucked into the folds of the mountains. The road can be bumpy and winding, so those prone to motion sickness should come prepared. Stops along the way allow you to stretch your legs, take photographs and learn about the Khevsur people, famed for their fierce independence, chain-mail traditions and distinctive embroidered clothing.
At Shatili and Anatori
The fortress village rewards slow exploration, with narrow passages, stone towers and small museums or exhibitions that explain local life. The Anatori necropolis, a short drive away, is quiet and atmospheric, and the guide will explain its history and legends. You may have time for a simple meal in a guesthouse in Shatili, and the views along the river and the cliffs are superb. Facilities are modest and mobile coverage is poor.
Making the most of it
Choose a clear day, wear layers, carry water, snacks and motion-sickness remedies, and be prepared for a long day. If the drive is too much in one go, consider overnight options in Shatili, which has guesthouses, and ask your operator what is possible. This trip is for travellers who love remote places and do not mind a hard road; for an easier day in the mountains, the Kazbegi trip is the better choice. Photographers will want a zoom lens for the towers and a wide lens for the valleys.
Good to know
There are few places to buy food or fuel on the way, so the operator will plan stops, and it helps to carry cash in lari for a simple meal or a souvenir. Roads in the highlands depend on the weather, and a late spring or early autumn trip may be changed or cancelled if snow or landslides block the pass.
What to expect
The experience
A long guided day trip by road into Khevsureti to see Shatili’s fortress village and the Anatori crypts.
Best time
Summer to early autumn, when the high pass is open.
How long
Fourteen hours or more including several hours of driving each way.
Tips
Bring your passport, water, snacks and motion-sickness remedies, and confirm the trip is running for your dates.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Adventurous travellers who love remote places and unusual history.
- Families
- Only for older children who cope with long rough drives.
- Couples
- Dramatic and unforgettable, but tiring.
- Pair with
- The Kazbegi or Truso Valley trips for a mountain week.
- Time needed
- A full day or more.
Good questions
What is Shatili?+
It is a fortress village of dry-stone houses and towers in Khevsureti, built for defence and still standing above the Argun river.
What is the Anatori necropolis?+
It is a group of small stone crypts near Shatili, associated with plague victims in local tradition.
When does the Khevsureti trip run?+
Mainly in summer and early autumn, when the high pass is open. Check your dates when you book.
How long is the journey?+
Several hours each way on winding, partly rough roads. Plan for a very long day.
Do I need my passport?+
Yes, carry it, because the area is close to a border. Follow your guide’s instructions near the frontier.
