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First Time in Tofino and Ucluelet

Tofino and Ucluelet guide

First Time in Tofino and Ucluelet

A practical primer for a first trip to Vancouver Island's wild west coast: what to book ahead, how to get around, how many days to allow and where Long Beach, the boat trips and the trails fit.

Tofino and Ucluelet sit at the end of Highway 4, about three hours by road from the Nanaimo ferry terminal, or a short flight from Vancouver. The two towns are about 40 kilometres apart, with Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in between, and together they make one of Canada's most atmospheric coastal destinations. The trip rewards some planning, mainly around weather, tides and a handful of boat trips.

Know the seasons first

Summer is the busiest time, with the calmest seas and the highest prices. Autumn and winter bring storm watching, quieter beaches and lower rates, and Tourism Tofino notes that storms are most dramatic in the fall and winter months. Spring brings migrating gray whales. Whatever the month, bring waterproof layers, because rain is part of the experience, and check the forecast and the tide tables before you plan beach time.

What to book ahead

The boat trips are the things that fill. Whale watching from Ucluelet is a small-boat trip of about three and a half hours with a maximum of 14 guests, and it sells out early in summer. The Hot Springs Cove trip and the Clayoquot Sound bear-watching tour both leave from Tofino and are worth booking a few days ahead, and the Broken Group Islands kayaking day is marked as likely to sell out. Rooms, especially oceanfront ones, should be booked months ahead for summer and holidays.Getting around. A car is the easiest way to see the coast, because the sights are spread out along Highway 4 and the Pacific Rim Highway. Tofino town is walkable, bikes are available, and a multi-use pathway links parts of the park for walkers and cyclists. Water taxis reach Meares Island and its Big Tree Trail. Parking at beaches fills in peak periods, so arrive early, and check Parks Canada's trail conditions page for any closures.

How many days

Three nights is a good minimum. Day one can be Long Beach and the Kwisitis Visitor Centre, day two a boat trip, and day three the Wild Pacific Trail or the Big Tree Trail. A fourth and fifth day let you add Hot Springs Cove, the Broken Group Islands or simply a spa and a storm. Split your stay between the towns if you can, with a night or two in Ucluelet for the trail and the harbour and the rest in Tofino for the beaches.

A simple first-day plan

Start with a morning at Long Beach, walking at low tide, then visit the Kwisitis Visitor Centre deck. Drive back to town for a late lunch and finish with a sunset walk on Chesterman Beach or a drink beside a window if the weather is rough. On day two, take the whale-watching trip from Ucluelet and walk the Lighthouse Loop afterwards.

Eating and supplies

Both towns have good cafes, bakeries and seafood restaurants, but the coast is far from big supermarkets and prices run high, so stock up on staples before you drive out and book popular dinners ahead in peak periods. A kitchen in your room, as at Pacific Sands and Black Rock, stretches a budget and makes early boat departures easier. Fuel up the car before the long drive, because stations are few between the junction and the coast.

Honest cautions

The ocean is powerful. There are no lifeguards on the beaches, rip currents and rogue waves are real, and King Tides can flood beach trails, so stay off tidal rocks and well above the high-tide line. Check Parks Canada for current visitor centre hours, since indoor hours change with the season. Boat trips can be changed or cancelled for weather, so leave a spare day in the itinerary. Services are limited and restaurants can be busy, so book dinners ahead in peak periods.

Mentioned in this guide

Long Beach, Pacific Rim National Park ReserveDo

Long Beach, Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

A 16-kilometre sweep of sand between Tofino and Ucluelet, edged by old-growth forest and marked by Incinerator Rock and Lovekin Rock. It is the beach everyone comes for, and it is just as good in a winter swell as on a summer afternoon.

Kwisitis Visitor Centre and Wickaninnish BeachDo

Kwisitis Visitor Centre and Wickaninnish Beach

The park's exhibit building at the south end of Wickaninnish Beach, with Nuu-chah-nulth stories, a replica longhouse and an outside deck that is open all year for watching whales, surfers and storms.

Do

Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet

An 8-kilometre coastal trail around the Ucluelet headland, with the Amphitrite Lighthouse loop, rocky bluffs and old cedars. It is free to walk, maintained by donations, and spectacular when winter waves hit the rocks.

Whale Watching and Sightseeing from UclueletDo

Whale Watching and Sightseeing from Ucluelet

A small-boat whale-watching and sightseeing trip of about three and a half hours from Ucluelet harbour, with room for no more than 14 guests. It is our pick for seeing the coast's whales.

Hot Springs Cove Boat Trip from TofinoDo

Hot Springs Cove Boat Trip from Tofino

A scenic boat ride up the coast from Tofino to the natural hot pools at Hot Springs Cove, with a forest boardwalk, wildlife on the way and a soak with the sea nearby. It is a full-day highlight in any season.

Wickaninnish InnStay

Wickaninnish Inn

The coast's most celebrated lodge, a Relais and Chateaux property on 100 acres of old forest above Chesterman Beach, with 75 rooms and suites, a spa and a restaurant on the rocks. It is the splurge choice for storm watching.

Pacific Sands Beach ResortStay

Pacific Sands Beach Resort

A family-friendly beachfront resort on Cox Bay with kitchen suites and beach houses a few steps from the surf. It is the practical mid-range pick for groups and anyone who likes to cook.

Stay

Black Rock Oceanfront Resort

An upscale oceanfront resort on a Ucluelet headland, surrounded by the Wild Pacific Trail, with kitchen suites, soaking tubs, a spa and two outdoor hot tubs. It is the best base for the south end of the coast.