Tucked away in the old town near the Garonne, the Fondation Bemberg occupies the Hôtel d'Assézat, a 16th-century mansion that is one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Toulouse. It was built in the middle of the 1500s for Pierre d'Assézat, a merchant who made his fortune in pastel, the blue dye produced from the woad plant that once made Toulouse rich. The courtyard, with its superimposed classical columns and the elaborate stone staircase tower, is a revelation after the plain streets outside. The collection inside was assembled by the Argentine collector Georges Bemberg and given to the city, and it is displayed in rooms furnished and arranged like a private home. It includes strong holdings of Pierre Bonnard, Henri Matisse and other early 20th-century painters, Impressionist works and Old Masters from the Renaissance and Baroque, as well as small bronzes, furniture and decorative arts. The scale and domestic setting make the experience personal, unlike the large national museums.
How to visit
The foundation is on place d'Assézat, a short walk from the Place du Capitole and close to the river, with Capitole metro on line A the nearest stop. Tickets are sold at the entrance, and the museum has a weekly closing day, so check the hours. Allow around ninety minutes. Temporary exhibitions are held in some of the rooms, so the visit may vary from season to season.
What to look for
Begin in the courtyard and study the stone work on the staircase tower, then follow the rooms in sequence. Bonnard's colourful domestic scenes are a highlight, and the Venetian views and other European paintings add variety. The upper floors hold the rooms in which the building's decorated ceilings and fireplaces survive. The building also houses a learned society, the Académie des Jeux floraux, which is one of the oldest literary societies in Europe.
Making the most of it
Combine the foundation with the Musée des Augustins and a walk along the Garonne for a rich day of culture, finishing with a coffee on the quay. The foundation is particularly worthwhile on a rainy day, as the visit is entirely indoors, and it suits couples and solo travellers who like a slower pace. Children who are not interested in art will probably be happier elsewhere. Photography rules vary by room, so ask at the desk, and take a moment in the courtyard to appreciate the building itself.
Practical notes
Because the rooms are small and the collection is delicate, visitor numbers are managed and bags may need to be left at the cloakroom. The upper floors involve stairs, though accessible routes are available on request. A small shop sells catalogues and postcards. The mansion also hosts temporary exhibitions that may display works from other collections, which can change the experience from one season to the next. For a longer art day, add the Les Abattoirs contemporary art museum across the Garonne, which offers a very different style and a striking industrial building.
The best time to go is on a weekday morning, when you may have entire rooms to yourself and can study the paintings without interruption. If the weather is fine, finish with a coffee on the nearby quay of the Garonne, and watch the light change on the water as you reflect on what you have seen.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit through the mansion's rooms and courtyard.
Best time
Weekday mornings, when the rooms are quietest.
How long
1 to 1.5 hours.
Tips
Temporary exhibitions can change the route, and there is a weekly closing day, so confirm before you go.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Impressionist and early modern painting in an intimate Renaissance setting.
- Families
- Best for older children with an interest in art; the courtyard is a good pause for younger ones.
- Couples
- A rainy afternoon of paintings followed by a stroll to the Garonne.
- Pair with
- Musée des Augustins and the river quays.
- Time needed
- About 90 minutes.
Good questions
Who built the Hôtel d'Assézat?+
Pierre d'Assézat, a wealthy Toulouse pastel merchant, had it built in the middle of the 16th century. Pastel was a blue dye made from woad that brought great wealth to the city.
What is in the Bemberg collection?+
It includes works by Bonnard, Matisse, Marquet and other modern painters, plus Impressionists, Old Masters, bronzes and decorative arts.
How long does a visit take?+
Most visitors spend around an hour to ninety minutes in the rooms and courtyard.
Is the foundation open every day?+
It has a weekly closing day, so check the current hours before you plan your visit.
Where is the Fondation Bemberg?+
It is in the Hôtel d'Assézat on place d'Assézat in the old town, a few minutes' walk from the Capitole and the Garonne.
