Laguna Esmeralda is the most popular hike near Ushuaia, and the trip is easy to see why. The walk begins at a trailhead on the valley road north of town and climbs gently through forest and across boggy ground before opening onto a wide bowl, where a milky turquoise lagoon sits below a glacier tongue and snowy peaks. Along the way you pass beaver dams, a reminder of the animals introduced to the island in the 1940s, as well as streams, mossy tree trunks and pools. The route is of moderate difficulty and suits anyone with average fitness, but the ground is often wet and muddy so waterproof footwear matters. The guided tour we link to is a trekking tour to the lagoon and surrounding Fuegian valleys with a small group, with a five-star traveller rating from over a hundred reviews. Tours usually last around five and a half hours door to door, and many include hotel pickup, so check your booking. In spring the trails are clear of deep snow at lower levels, though patches linger higher up.
Expect a day outdoors rather than a stroll. The round trip is a long walk of well over ten kilometres depending on the route, so a steady pace and a good breakfast help. The first section crosses wooden boardwalks and bog, then climbs through beech forest where trunks are draped in lichen. Beaver dams flood parts of the path, and guides know the driest line. The lagoon itself is a pale turquoise colour from glacial flour, and the cold wind from the ice is strong, so take a warm layer for the lunch stop.
Choose between guided and independent. Guides handle transport, point out plants and wildlife, and are useful if the trail is slippery or the weather turns. Independent hikers can drive or take a taxi to the trailhead, but should carry a map, water and enough food, and tell their hotel where they are going. Some tours include a lunch stop at a mountain refuge or a packed meal, so read the details to see what is included.
Timing and preparation matter. November has long daylight, but weather can change quickly, so pack a waterproof jacket, gloves, a hat and a spare pair of socks. Waterproof hiking boots or gaiters are worth it. Avoid cotton, and bring sun cream because the southern sun is stronger than it feels. If rain is heavy, consider swapping this hike for a day in the national park or on the lakes road, and rebook the lagoon for a clearer day.
What to expect
The experience
A guided trek on a marked trail through forest and bog to a turquoise lagoon beneath a glacier, with hotel pickup offered on many guided versions.
Best time
Morning departures give the most daylight on the trail; clear days show the glacier best.
How long
Around five and a half hours with the tour, with several hours of actual walking.
Tips
Wear waterproof boots, bring a rain shell, warm layer, water and lunch if not provided, and expect mud on the lower trail.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Hikers and keen walkers who want a real mountain day without technical climbing.
- Families
- Suitable for fit older children; the length and mud are tiring for the very young.
- Couples
- A shared adventure ending with a long lunch beside the lagoon.
- Pair with
- A king crab lunch or a soak in town the next day.
- Time needed
- One full morning and afternoon, about six hours.
Good questions
How hard is the hike to Laguna Esmeralda?+
It is moderate, with gentle gradients but long distances and muddy ground. Average fitness and good boots are enough.
Is it open in November?+
Yes, the trail is usually clear at lower levels in spring, though patches of snow and mud can remain. Tour operators adjust routes if conditions are poor.
Do I need a guide?+
Not strictly, but a guide handles transport and the best route through wet ground. Independent hikers should carry a map and water.
What should I wear?+
Waterproof hiking boots, a rain jacket, warm layers, gloves and a hat. Avoid cotton and bring a spare pair of socks.
Are there beavers?+
You will see their dams and lodges along the route. The animals themselves are mostly active at dusk, so sightings are unlikely on a day hike.
