Hetch Hetchy Valley and Wapama Falls

Hetch Hetchy is the corner of Yosemite most visitors never see, and the one with the most dramatic backstory. A glacial valley much like Yosemite Valley, it was dammed in the early twentieth century to supply water to San Francisco, after a bitter national fight in which John Muir and his allies argued that a national park should never be flooded. The O'Shaughnessy Dam was completed in the 1920s, and the reservoir now fills the valley floor — yet the granite walls, Kolana Rock and the waterfalls tumbling from the north side remain spectacular. The classic walk crosses the top of the dam, passes through a rock tunnel and follows the reservoir shore to Tueeulala and Wapama Falls; the round trip to Wapama is about five miles with modest elevation change, and in spring the waterfall can spray across the footbridges with real force. Because Hetch Hetchy sits lower than Yosemite Valley, it is a good destination in spring and late fall when higher areas are snowbound, and it is quieter than the valley in every season. Access is by the Hetch Hetchy Road, which leaves Highway 120 just outside the Big Oak Flat Entrance via Evergreen Road and enters the park at its own entrance station. The NPS lists the road as open from sunrise to sunset, with the gate closed at night, and it closes when it is snowing or snow is forecast overnight; parking at the dam is limited. Swimming and boating in the reservoir are not permitted, because it is a drinking water supply. Bring water, sun protection and layers, and start early in warm weather — the north shore trail is exposed and can be hot.

The debate over Hetch Hetchy is one of the founding stories of American conservation. After the 1906 earthquake and fires, San Francisco pushed for a reliable water supply, and Congress approved the dam in 1913. Muir called the decision a tragedy, and the loss of Hetch Hetchy helped spur the creation of the National Park Service in 1916. Debate continues to this day, with advocates proposing restoration of the valley. Standing on the dam and looking up the reservoir, you can imagine what the valley once looked like — and appreciate the waterfalls that still cascade from its walls.

Walking to Wapama Falls. From the parking area, walk across the dam, through the tunnel, and along the shore trail as it rises and falls among oaks and boulders. Tueeulala Falls, which flows mainly in spring, appears first, followed by Wapama Falls, which can be thunderous in a big snow year. In peak flow, the footbridges below Wapama can be dangerous when water washes across them, and the NPS has closed them at times; heed any warnings and turn back if water is flowing over the trail. Later in the season, the falls thin and the walk is calmer. Allow two to three hours for the round trip, and bring water because there is little shade.

Planning your visit. The Hetch Hetchy entrance is about an hour and a half from Yosemite Valley and around twenty to thirty minutes from Groveland-area lodges such as Evergreen Lodge, which sits on the road in. Because the gate closes at night, plan to be back at your car before sunset. In winter, check whether the road is open and whether chains are required, and remember that conditions can change with storms. Pair a morning at Hetch Hetchy with an afternoon at the Tuolumne or Merced sequoia groves, or a drive into Yosemite Valley via Big Oak Flat Road for sunset at Tunnel View.